9th Gen Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of installing a K20a2 oil pump on my K24Z7, this kit is sold by several different vendors, I bought a used set up for $160 to make sure it would work, and what I found is it does not just bolt up, The bad ---- the pump will bolt on after doing the normal trimming of the pump to clear the crank girdle but the 3rd bolt has nothing to bolt to, the windage tray or baffle only has 2 bolt holes on the flywheel side the other 4 have nothing to bolt to, the good---all of the timing chain - tensioner - guide all line up perfectly with the stock k24z7 crank sprocket, I have a plan to make this all work using all of the factory K20a2 components. I will take pictures and write a how to as I go, If someone has done this on a k24z3-7 engine I could not find any information that was reliable that is why I started this tread.
A few pictures of the kits available the K20A PRB Oil Pump conversion package and RRC oil pump conversion package
rrc_oil_pump.jpg prb_oil_pump.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I saw a before and after dyno it was good for about 10whp, I can't seem to find it now, think it was on k20a.org ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
962 Posts
My question is: is an oil pump originally designed for adequate lubrication of a smaller displacement engine sufficient to meet the oiling needs of our 2.4L engines? Aside from the balance shafts, what other physical differences are there between the 2.0L and 2.4L-derived pumps?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
My question is: is an oil pump originally designed for adequate lubrication of a smaller displacement engine sufficient to meet the oiling needs of our 2.4L engines? Aside from the balance shafts, what other physical differences are there between the 2.0L and 2.4L-derived pumps?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
But the 2.0's see 8k rpm all day long.
The 2.4 only hits 8k if it's an accident.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The balance shaft-oil pump is half way submerged in the oil pan and it turns 2x engine speed so at 8000 RPM it's spinning 16000 RPM, I believe - this is a major draw on power - it heats up the oil - will be able to add more oil capacity without the pump taking up space in the pan, and I can't leave shit alone must modify LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
notch bottom of pump.jpg
After removing stock pump
notch the bottom of the pump
to clear the crank journal studs
and cap

nothing to bolt to.jpg
Put the pump on and you
will see there is nothing to
bolt to
use this hole.jpg
Under the pump arm you
will see this hole put some
bluing or a little paint on
it and press the pump on
to mark were to drill the hole
drill hole here.jpg
Drill a 7mm hole here
put  bolt in from bottom.jpg
Put the bolt up through
the hole in the block it needs
to be a little longer than the stock
6mm bolt make sure it has a big
shoulder on it so it does not pull
through the hole
put chain on.jpg
Tip the pump so you can put the chain
on before you bolt it down you can't
get the chain on once it's bolted down
you can put the guide and tensioner on
later
pump bolted down.jpg
use red or green locktite on the bolt
and tighten the nut on good and tight
remove oil jet.jpg
next use a small pick and pull the
oil jet out
oil jet.jpg
this hole must be plugged ours
is not threaded like other k24 engines
I will figure out what tap size to use
and figure out how to bolt down the
baffle - windage tray next
oil baffle 2 bolts.jpg
Only two bolts line up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,032 Posts
this is one of the hardest mod's for the k24z7..


rsx oil pump will not give you +10whp, it's about +5-6whp, the most important reason to install rsx oil pump is to reduce cavitation at high rpm, power gain is just a bonus
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
tray 1.jpg
Ok this is the oil jet hole I tapped it out with a 8mmx1.5 pitch
and used a stud locktited it in and used a couple washers and
put a nut with a flared head up so I can use this to hold the
center of the baffle there is a hole in the baffle already that
lines up perfectly

tray 3.jpg
On the other side I used one of the mounting bolt holes from
the original balance shaft and cut spacers on an angle put one on top
and a shorter one on the bottom to get the 1/4 lift needed to clear the
crankshaft drilled a hole and bolt it down
tray 2.jpg
on the two holes that lined up I just made spacers about 1/4 inch tall
tray 4.jpg
On the pump end there are no holes to use so I'm welding a bracket to the
baffle on both sides of the pump and will drill a hole and sandwich them together

Well that's it for tonight beat to death it's been a long busy day
drain 2.jpg
next I will finish the bracket and make a block off plate for the original
oil filter location

drain 1.jpg
I'm going to weld this pipe onto the plate for my turbo oil drain instead of
going into the oil pan it's higher up out of the oil level in the pan and I
can use a clap instead of a AN fitting on the pan

And JE sent me an e mail my pistons shipped today so I need to get this
done and torn apart so it can go to the machine shop to get the pistons
fitted and I will be back on the road in no time
20151220_135716_resized.jpg Because of this I'm driving a Pontiac Grand am POS hate it
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
bracket 2.jpg
bracket finished
bracket.jpg
I made the bracket wider on one side
and bolted it to the pump it is solid
now
turbo drain.jpg
traced the oil filter manifold to make
a block off plate then put a drain in
it for turbo oil drain
all done it was not to hard just took about 3-4 hours to modify and fabricate
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Well I've been driving the car for about a week now, all works great, it has a little bit more vibration at idle and up to about 2500 RPM not to bad even with my torque strut, it seem to rev a bit faster than before especially in neutral, very happy with the results, well worth the money
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
The balance shaft-oil pump is half way submerged in the oil pan and it turns 2x engine speed so at 8000 RPM it's spinning 16000 RPM, I believe - this is a major draw on power - it heats up the oil - will be able to add more oil capacity without the pump taking up space in the pan, and I can't leave shit alone must modify LOL
And if like the Nissan QR25DE engines, it aerates the oil too... Oil that is full of tiny air bubbles is both not the best lubricant and not great for a stable oil pressure...

MArko!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
View attachment 384065
After removing stock pump
notch the bottom of the pump
to clear the crank journal studs
and cap

View attachment 384073
Put the pump on and you
will see there is nothing to
bolt to
View attachment 384089
Under the pump arm you
will see this hole put some
bluing or a little paint on
it and press the pump on
to mark were to drill the hole
View attachment 384097
Drill a 7mm hole here
View attachment 384105
Put the bolt up through
the hole in the block it needs
to be a little longer than the stock
6mm bolt make sure it has a big
shoulder on it so it does not pull
through the hole
View attachment 384113
Tip the pump so you can put the chain
on before you bolt it down you can't
get the chain on once it's bolted down
you can put the guide and tensioner on
later
View attachment 384121
use red or green locktite on the bolt
and tighten the nut on good and tight
View attachment 384129
next use a small pick and pull the
oil jet out
View attachment 384153
this hole must be plugged ours
is not threaded like other k24 engines
I will figure out what tap size to use
and figure out how to bolt down the
baffle - windage tray next
View attachment 384169
Only two bolts line up
View attachment 385706
Ok this is the oil jet hole I tapped it out with a 8mmx1.5 pitch
and used a stud locktited it in and used a couple washers and
put a nut with a flared head up so I can use this to hold the
center of the baffle there is a hole in the baffle already that
lines up perfectly

View attachment 385714
On the other side I used one of the mounting bolt holes from
the original balance shaft and cut spacers on an angle put one on top
and a shorter one on the bottom to get the 1/4 lift needed to clear the
crankshaft drilled a hole and bolt it down
View attachment 385722
on the two holes that lined up I just made spacers about 1/4 inch tall
View attachment 385730
On the pump end there are no holes to use so I'm welding a bracket to the
baffle on both sides of the pump and will drill a hole and sandwich them together

Well that's it for tonight beat to death it's been a long busy day
View attachment 385738
next I will finish the bracket and make a block off plate for the original
oil filter location

View attachment 385746
I'm going to weld this pipe onto the plate for my turbo oil drain instead of
going into the oil pan it's higher up out of the oil level in the pan and I
can use a clap instead of a AN fitting on the pan

And JE sent me an e mail my pistons shipped today so I need to get this
done and torn apart so it can go to the machine shop to get the pistons
fitted and I will be back on the road in no time
View attachment 385754 Because of this I'm driving a Pontiac Grand am POS hate it
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
View attachment 386098
bracket finished
View attachment 386106
I made the bracket wider on one side
and bolted it to the pump it is solid
now
View attachment 386114
traced the oil filter manifold to make
a block off plate then put a drain in
it for turbo oil drain
all done it was not to hard just took about 3-4 hours to modify and fabricate
Well done! Moto Iq did it also with OE parts! :) Like it! Start at page 7.
Extreme Engine Tech: Building the Ultimate K24 Part 3- The Finished Goods!

MArko!
 
  • Like
Reactions: team3d

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Well I've been driving the car for about a week now, all works great, it has a little bit more vibration at idle and up to about 2500 RPM not to bad even with my torque strut, it seem to rev a bit faster than before especially in neutral, very happy with the results, well worth the money
I just finished this on mine the other day. It seems to be a lot louder than the stock pump... almost like a knock but I don’t think it is cause I used spacers as you did for the windage tray. Is a little extra noise normal compared to stock?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top