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Discussion Starter #1
I recently got the makspeed turbo kit installed and the oil return is the drain plug on the pan and i want to get a proper one. Does anyone know the best place to locate the bung on the pan ?
 

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I recently got the makspeed turbo kit installed and the oil return is the drain plug on the pan and i want to get a proper one. Does anyone know the best place to locate the bung on the pan ?
Check out the full-race write up. Step 3 covers the oil drain install

@9thgensifamily how did you run yours?

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I need to get a better picture of it. It's on the drivers side, right next to the oil filter. I wanted it up as high as I could get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can you send a picture because I saw the location on efr but it seems like alotta work and the oil won't flow well.
 

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It's the best routing IMO for oil flow, and there's no cutting on the pan. I did have difficulty sealing up the threads, Hondabond has worked best. If i ever get in there again, I'll have a aluminum bung welded on for a permanent solution. Pic is best I have of it, i'll see if I can take a better one. Can't get car in the air right now unfortunately.
 

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I'm also not sure where the extra work comes. If it's taking the pan off, that's just to get the chips out, and clean so Honda bond sticks. You may be thinking of cutting the webbing...I did the "possible alternate location" the spoke of in the Full race install instructions, there's no cutting on the pan, just drill and tap. If you want a permanent solution welding is the best option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea ima get it welded next to the filter but do you have a better picture of where the actual bung is at? Dont mean to bug just wanna get this done asap
 

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Would i be able to get a bung welded in the same spot as you ?
My current problem is my garage door crapped out on me, so can't get car in the garage. I tried getting it in a low spot so I could snap a quick pic, but didn't work out.
I'll try to get a picture again of it. I can't think of a reason you couldn't weld a bung on there, I was planning on it when I need to get into the bottom end of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just cause the pan has curves. Don't know much about welding or if it had to be on a flat surface
 

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Just cause the pan has curves. Don't know much about welding or if it had to be on a flat surface
It doesn't have to be a flat surface, however, the bung should be treated (cut/sand etc) to match the profile of the surface to minimize the gap prior to welding.
 

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IIRC, you could push the bung in until it's at the bottom of the curve, and it wouldn't interfere with anything on the internals. There'd be little or no gap for a welder to worry about.
I found some more pictures too! Looks like there's good clearance on the inside of the pan, just make sure you have it as far towards the trans end as you can, you can see where my tap grazed the inside wall.
 

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Only letting me load one pic at a time. You'll have to look at the bolt hole in that area, I think there's room to shift the hole over farther so the bolts not blocked by the bung. This could require a bit of ingenuity to get around.
 

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I put the fitting in the pan, after mounting pan to the block, so the bolt was already in. The picture with it in, with the pan off, was just checking the threads.
There's room to shift it over and clear I believe, or throw a set screw in the block, and use a nut in that location. It kinda depends on what the O.D. of the bung your using on how it goes in to clear everything. It may be easier for you to cut the webbing on the pan, and put it on the side like Full-Race instructions said.
 
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