[Mcivicsi]

Hello
2014 Civic Si Stock 160,000 miles
New Alternator
New Battery
New Battery Current Sensor
New spark plugs
I tested the #1 coil by switching it with #4 code remained.
tested injector #1 by switching it with #4 code remained.
rough idle during cold starts car will rarely go into limp mode goes away by turn off and turning on car. OBD2 won’t clear the code I have to disconnect the battery to clear it.
code normally comes back during cold starts.

 

[dpetro1]

Might be time for a compression and leak down test.

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[kev604]

OP you've got 4 different threads going asking the same thing just stick to one thread.

 

[Mcivicsi]

I don’t use this often I wasn’t sure if my first conversation was posted or not. Are you really keeping track of everyone’s post? Do you have that much time in your hands?

 

[dpetro1]

I don’t use this often I wasn’t sure if my first conversation was posted or not. Are you really keeping track of everyone’s post? Do you have that much time in your hands?

Lol dude, slow your role. He's the moderator. That's kind of his job...

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[Mcivicsi]

Lol dude, slow your role. He's the moderator. That's kind of his job...

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

Wtf is a moderator? Like I said I don’t use this often. Hope he gets paid cuz if that’s he’s job sounds exhausting

 

[kev604]

Are you really keeping track of everyone’s post? Do you have that much time in your hands?

When you make four posts in a row and start two new threads all talking about the same thing it ain't hard to see.
No I don't have that much time on my hands so when you make duplicate post like that your wasting my time cause I have to go back and delete the duplicates not to mention if you start one thread and stick to it you have a better chance of getting an answer.

Wtf is a moderator? Like I said I don’t use this often. Hope he gets paid cuz if that’s he’s job sounds exhausting

Moderators keep the site tidy. Get rid of trolls, spammers and general trouble makers. No we don't get paid reason I do it is because I myself own a 9thgen since May of 2013 and love my car so I choose to volunteer my time here.

 

[Mcivicsi]

When you make four posts in a row and start two new threads all talking about the same thing it ain't hard to see.
No I don't have that much time on my hands so when you make duplicate post like that your wasting my time cause I have to go back and delete the duplicates not to mention if you start one thread and stick to it you have a better chance of getting an answer.


Moderators keep the site tidy. Get rid of trolls, spammers and general trouble makers. No we don't get paid reason I do it is because I myself own a 9thgen since May of 2013 and love my car so I choose to volunteer my time here.

Then help a brother out then compression test came back. all cylinder are identical. This is my commuter car I drive an M3 and I’m loosing money fast.
my mechanic has moved out of California so my only option is the dealership so I’m willing to try anything before I have to take it in.

 

[kev604]

Have you tried searching the forum tried searching previous threads looks like this code has been discussed in a few different threads before.

 

[Mcivicsi]

Have you tried searching the forum tried searching previous threads looks like this code has been discussed in a few different threads before.

Yes but most don’t post an update. Or what solved the problem, I’m starting to think it’s the ECU and today I noticed static coming from the front Twitter by the driver side. I Kidd you not from my experience BMW has been more reliable/easier to work on Honda has let me down

 

[EffBee6fromthe209]

Ok so I'll back Kev on this one and keep your post to one thread
Here's a big one that a lot of people miss.
You can call it crazy you can call it stupid......call it whatever the h.e.l.l makes u warm and fuzzy.

But it is what it is and it's what fixed my problem.
I have an idea as to why it's a huge factor but since I don't work for honda I can't confirm aside from what worked for me.
The fact you said the cold affects it is what would affect mine.


So.....you ready for your possible solution.?
A grab some car ramps or jack stands.
B pop the hood and disconnect the battery.
C place said car on ramps or jacks.
D crawl under said car and look for the giant EPS plug. Should be around the drivers footboard.
E undue the plug and clean the contacts really good and spray down or brush in new dielectric grease.
F reverse process.
Once car is safely back on ground, plug battery back in.
Turn car on and allow to idle itself and relearn itself.
After about 10 minutes turn off. Then turn on go drive slowly rowing through each gear...........IF it doesn't come back on that was the problem.
Idk but my guess is since that sucks the most electric power from the car any tiny little eccentric draw messes with the ecu. And I noticed it when I went up in Mileage.

At 227k miles rn.


If it don't work well at least you know the eps plug is clean for another 160k miles. But it solved mine

 

[Mcivicsi]

Ok so I'll back Kev on this one and keep your post to one thread
Here's a big one that a lot of people miss.
You can call it crazy you can call it stupid......call it whatever the h.e.l.l makes u warm and fuzzy.

But it is what it is and it's what fixed my problem.
I have an idea as to why it's a huge factor but since I don't work for honda I can't confirm aside from what worked for me.
The fact you said the cold affects it is what would affect mine.


So.....you ready for your possible solution.?
A grab some car ramps or jack stands.
B pop the hood and disconnect the battery.
C place said car on ramps or jacks.
D crawl under said car and look for the giant EPS plug. Should be around the drivers footboard.
E undue the plug and clean the contacts really good and spray down or brush in new dielectric grease.
F reverse process.
Once car is safely back on ground, plug battery back in.
Turn car on and allow to idle itself and relearn itself.
After about 10 minutes turn off. Then turn on go drive slowly rowing through each gear...........IF it doesn't come back on that was the problem.
Idk but my guess is since that sucks the most electric power from the car any tiny little eccentric draw messes with the ecu. And I noticed it when I went up in Mileage.

At 227k miles rn.


If it don't work well at least you know the eps plug is clean for another 160k miles. But it solved mine

I think it was actually a tiny crack in a valve spring, actually got the answer from a Toyota Tundra chat room guy had similar problems during cold starts, I replaced it and problem hasn’t come back for now not sure because the problem would take 1 some times 2 weeks to come back when I cleared it so I’ll keep you updated.
and once again I don’t use this often last time I used it it was 2017,I don’t know the “rules”