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Discussion Starter #1
Does our K24Z7 have the oil jets for cooling the pistons like the K24A2? I want to know because I am planning on a doing an all motor build in a year or so with a ported stock head and new cams along with ITBs and and raising the fuel cut to 8k. I am also getting the FD2 Type-R oil pump as well as it is the best K series oil pump Honda has made and happens to require no/the least modification to fit our stock Z7 blocks.
 

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not sure about the oil jets, but have you considering doing a k20 head swap?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, because I wanted to stay with the stock head for simplicity because it fits in the easiest. I’m I’m not bothered by the slight 10-15% loss in exhaust flow compared to a k20’s. Our intake side actually flows real good stock but the exhaust is what kills it. I’m planning on going to 4pr in a year or so and getting it ported and they do a real good job (increased CFM) on it so I don’t mind the slight loss in power. I could’ve got anyway.
 

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No, because I wanted to stay with the stock head for simplicity because it fits in the easiest. I’m I’m not bothered by the slight 10-15% loss in exhaust flow compared to a k20’s. Our intake side actually flows real good stock but the exhaust is what kills it. I’m planning on going to 4pr in a year or so and getting it ported and they do a real good job (increased CFM) on it so I don’t mind the slight loss in power. I could’ve got anyway.
Yea, i feel ya. I'm still debating to see if I want to go the 4piston route or doing the k20 swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea, i feel ya. I'm still debating to see if I want to go the 4piston route or doing the k20 swap.
I just called them and they said the ported K24Z7 head flows 357 cfm, which is very good as a normally ported k20z3 will flow around 375 or so, so for me I think it’s very much worth it as it just goes back in perfect with no modification needed and no need to worry about header clearance issues and needing a custom header although some k20/k24 niche headers exist but are expensive. Personally I’m getting CNT racing catless downpipe bc it’s resonated too and is real good price and quality. I am going for a drop in cam on intake and going with single lobe VTEC killer cams on the exhaust which is basically how it comes from the factory. I am really jsut debating on Increasing the compression ratio.
 

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I just called them and they said the ported K24Z7 head flows 357 cfm, which is very good as a normally ported k20z3 will flow around 375 or so, so for me I think it’s very much worth it as it just goes back in perfect with no modification needed and no need to worry about header clearance issues and needing a custom header although some k20/k24 niche headers exist but are expensive. Personally I’m getting CNT racing catless downpipe bc it’s resonated too and is real good price and quality. I am going for a drop in cam on intake and going with single lobe VTEC killer cams on the exhaust which is basically how it comes from the factory. I am really jsut debating on Increasing the compression ratio.
ahhhh, gotcha. Damn, that's not bad at all. I guess it comes down to cost when choosing which head to go with.

As for the cams, where are you going to be purchasing the cams and the ones you plan on purchasing, are there proven dyno number improvements? I've read on here that numerous companies have tried to make cams for our cars but non were successful (actually lost power).

I would love to be able to improve the exhaust cam as I am supercharged and would like this thing to breathe freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wish there were cams for our motor (bisimoto did, and I was planning to buy but he just stopped selling and is removed from the site) but I am probably going with 4 piston racing rr3 single lobe for the exhaust and for my intake cam either the Spoon Sports FD2 type r cam or I’ll just match the exhaust with the 4 piston racing rr3 intake but 3 lobe. I am bugged by the lack of numbers though as you said because it jsut makes it harder to choose a cam as it is. I know our intake side flows similar to the fd2 so that’s why I was considering the cam. 4 piston said their rr3 cam is a good drop in for k24s and because my head will be ported I would expect the cams to compliment it instead of losing power like others have seen with the stock head. I just think that the head needs better flow for cams to work because of how awkward it flows (good intake/shit exhaust) and that the engineers already did the best they could as far as cams were.
 

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yea, i see what you're saying. Hmmm.......now I'm really torn on which head to go with, lol
 

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yea, i see what you're saying. Hmmm.......now I'm really torn on which head to go with, lol
Yeah, 4 piston really opened up a new alley way for us after all this time because even though everyone was pissed at Honda at first I think it was just a matter of time before aftermarket support finally came in for the z7. Personally if I was to go turbo I would stay with this head because of how easy it spools them, and I have seen 4xxfwhp/3xxfwtq on just the stock unported head. I would assume that since the integrated exhaust manifold wouldn’t affect a supercharger the same way it does with a turbo because there is nothing to spool so I think maybe the k20 head would be better, but I am still a fan of getting the stock head ported for convenience sake because the extra money for it would just be the same as the other items you would need to get to make a k20 swap possible so this is my personal reasoning. Either way, I personally think it is a better idea to upgrade the cooling system on our cars if going with the stock head route because our engines produce a lot of heat and produce it quickly, because it is high compression and also the integrated exhaust manifold places a high cooling load on the motor, which is convenient for cold starts in the winter bc you’re up to operating temp in no time, but during the rest of the year (particularly the summer) it will just cause quicker and worse heat soak. A Koyo radiator alone would be of help and is good for 3 hundred something bucks but I will personally going the whole route by also getting it as a kit with an upgraded fan shroud (has better fans) by fkx racing for just another 100, as well as thermostat and fan switch and the high temp coolant hoses. 1 thing to note though is that the k20 head doesn’t match up perfectly but can be fixed by using the right gasket bc of 1 slightly different coolant port so that is one thing to watch out for because you can get a coolant leak if not done right.
 

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Yeah, 4 piston really opened up a new alley way for us after all this time because even though everyone was pissed at Honda at first I think it was just a matter of time before aftermarket support finally came in for the z7. Personally if I was to go turbo I would stay with this head because of how easy it spools them, and I have seen 4xxfwhp/3xxfwtq on just the stock unported head. I would assume that since the integrated exhaust manifold wouldn’t affect a supercharger the same way it does with a turbo because there is nothing to spool so I think maybe the k20 head would be better, but I am still a fan of getting the stock head ported for convenience sake because the extra money for it would just be the same as the other items you would need to get to make a k20 swap possible so this is my personal reasoning. Either way, I personally think it is a better idea to upgrade the cooling system on our cars if going with the stock head route because our engines produce a lot of heat and produce it quickly, because it is high compression and also the integrated exhaust manifold places a high cooling load on the motor, which is convenient for cold starts in the winter bc you’re up to operating temp in no time, but during the rest of the year (particularly the summer) it will just cause quicker and worse heat soak. A Koyo radiator alone would be of help and is good for 3 hundred something bucks but I will personally going the whole route by also getting it as a kit with an upgraded fan shroud (has better fans) by fkx racing for just another 100, as well as thermostat and fan switch and the high temp coolant hoses. 1 thing to note though is that the k20 head doesn’t match up perfectly but can be fixed by using the right gasket bc of 1 slightly different coolant port so that is one thing to watch out for because you can get a coolant leak if not done right.
oh wow, I didn't know fkx racing had a radiator kit for our vehicles. I'm definitely going to have to check that out. I was thinking of upgrading my hoses anyways, so might as well upgrade the whole system.

Yea, i'm curious to see how much hp/tq gain I will get on the 4piston ported head. My exhaust side is definitely holding back power on my s/c kit. Wish I had money to blow and test both of them out, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh wow, I didn't know fkx racing had a radiator kit for our vehicles. I'm definitely going to have to check that out. I was thinking of upgrading my hoses anyways, so might as well upgrade the whole system.

Yea, i'm curious to see how much hp/tq gain I will get on the 4piston ported head. My exhaust side is definitely holding back power on my s/c kit. Wish I had money to blow and test both of them out, lol
Yeah bro it’s a steal and I’m going with the Acuity hoses and they’re real nice. The stock head flow is around 300ish cfm which is about the norm for most k series heads, on the site it says they leave some areas of the exhaust untouched as is it can get thin there due to the water jackets. But the outlet and internal bowl have a good job done to them so I don’t think it will be a huge difference because most people don’t get their exhaust valves resized anyway for street use. They have an option to get a +1 mm intake valve seat but I am personally sticking without it because I think it is unnecessary, however I am getting th3 special copper-beryllium “a3” exhaust seat for the heat because why not.
 

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Was there a conclusion on the oil jets part of this thread?
 
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