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Hello everyone, I’m in towards the end of installing the prl stage 2 kit on my 2015 civic si. Everything is put in, id1050 injectors, dw 65c fuel pump, comp stage 3 clutch & comp ultra lightweight flywheel and intercooler/piping, the turbo is still not mounted since we were sent the wrong oil plugs for the Garrett (gt3076r) turbo (they sent plugs for a precision turbo). My father and I are installing everything in our barn (on a lift) and this is the first turbo kit we’ve ever worked with and we can not for the life of us figure out where the vacuum lines for the waste gate, and bov are supposed to go. I’ve seen some kits with precision turbos that have vacuum lines coming off them but my turbo doesn’t have a vacuum port anywhere. It sucks prl doesn’t give any kind of direction and i can’t find jack shit on YouTube or the forums that answer my specific questions. If i missed a thread I’d be glad to read it. I’m running a stock intake manifold any help would be greatly appreciated and if there’s any more information someone needs to help please let me know. Kinda a noob with FI if its not obvious
 

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Wastegate should connect to a port on the turbo housing, the compressor side. If your using a boost controller, the valve goes "in the middle" of this hose. Edit I re-read your post. If you don't have a port on your turbo itself, then the wastegate needs to be hooked up somewhere before the throttle. The closer to the turbo, the better IIRC.
The blow off valve should be hooked into anywhere behind the throttle body on the intake manifold. This allows the blow off valve to see vacuum when you close the throttle, even though your intercooler and plumbing still has pressurized air (which it then bleeds off).
Are you on the stock manifold or RBC?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wastegate should connect to a port on the turbo housing, the compressor side. If your using a boost controller, the valve goes "in the middle" of this hose. Edit I re-read your post. If you don't have a port on your turbo itself, then the wastegate needs to be hooked up somewhere before the throttle. The closer to the turbo, the better IIRC.
The blow off valve should be hooked into anywhere behind the throttle body on the intake manifold. This allows the blow off valve to see vacuum when you close the throttle, even though your intercooler and plumbing still has pressurized air (which it then bleeds off).
Are you on the stock manifold or RBC?
I’m using stock manifold for the time being. Thank you very much for the tips though, the proper fittings and such are coming in tomorrow so hopefully i can have it running and begin etuning by the end of the week
 

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I’m using stock manifold for the time being. Thank you very much for the tips though, the proper fittings and such are coming in tomorrow so hopefully i can have it running and begin etuning by the end of the week
Let us know how it turns out. I'm hoping to need a retune soon, and not sure I want to go the Dyno route again.
 

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Let us know how it turns out. I'm hoping to need a retune soon, and not sure I want to go the Dyno route again.
Do you know anyone on here with my turbo setup that could point me in the right direction for the two lines coming off the waste gate?
 

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Do you know anyone on here with my turbo setup that could point me in the right direction for the two lines coming off the waste gate?
@9thgensifamily already answered really.

The kit comes with a tial mvr, right?
The lower air port goes to a boost source (turbo compressor, charge pipe). If you dont have one then you will need to add it.

The top is only used if you have an electronic boost controller. If you do, then follow the boost controller instructions for install

Here is a link to the tial instructions as well

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@9thgensifamily already answered really.

The kit comes with a tial mvr, right?
The lower air port goes to a boost source (turbo compressor, charge pipe). If you dont have one then you will need to add it.

The top is only used if you have an electronic boost controller. If you do, then follow the boost controller instructions for install

Here is a link to the tial instructions as well

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Is comes with a precision wg (I’m assuming by mvr you mean waste gate. Not too up to date with terminology) I’ll post pictures of what i have to work with. Also the sensor in the picture, where do we wire that up to? We do not have a boost controller of any sort at the moment. We planned on just running waste gate pressure, is it worth getting the controller? Like i said my only goal For power right now is 350, then crank it up once my trans gets gears in it. I’ve read that 3rd and 4th well shred after 300wtq. Thanks again for your guys help, i can’t say it enough.
 

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Is comes with a precision wg (I’m assuming by mvr you mean waste gate. Not too up to date with terminology) I’ll post pictures of what i have to work with. Also the sensor in the picture, where do we wire that up to? We do not have a boost controller of any sort at the moment. We planned on just running waste gate pressure, is it worth getting the controller? Like i said my only goal For power right now is 350, then crank it up once my trans gets gears in it. I’ve read that 3rd and 4th well shred after 300wtq. Thanks again for your guys help, i can’t say it enough.
Ok, thanks for the clarification. I was referring to a tial mvr wastegate. But the precision will install the same. All you need is the lower port to a boost source. I can't tell from the picture but I guess there is no fitting on your turbo compressor?
You can drill/tap one in or weld a fitting onto a charge pipe.

You do not need a boost controller, that would just complicate things at this point.

For the sensor, that is an IAT sensor. You will need to wire it into the MAF harness to get proper air temp readings in your tuning software.
See the hondata help file for specific instructions



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, thanks for the clarification. I was referring to a tial mvr wastegate. But the precision will install the same. All you need is the lower port to a boost source. I can't tell from the picture but I guess there is no fitting on your turbo compressor?
You can drill/tap one in or weld a fitting onto a charge pipe.

You do not need a boost controller, that would just complicate things at this point.

For the sensor, that is an IAT sensor. You will need to wire it into the MAF harness to get proper air temp readings in your tuning software.
See the hondata help file for specific instructions



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Do you happen to know the exact wires you plug into? And there’s none on the turbo so could we put a fitting where the X is on the compressor? Or should we just get as close as we can with the charge Pipe?
 

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Did you read the hondata link I gave you? It explains which wires to use with pictures.

I would say yes, that X would be a fine location. Be careful not to get and shavings down in the turbo. 1/8npt should work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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Did you read the hondata link I gave you? It explains which wires to use with pictures.

I would say yes, that X would be a fine location. Be careful not to get and shavings down in the turbo. 1/8npt should work.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I did not I’m sorry, i should’ve opened the link first. Thank you again that’s what we will do
 

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Keep in mind on your intake air temp sensor, your cutting and disconnecting the two wires from the MAF sensor.... soldering your new sensor into the wiring harness side....but you still have to keep the MAF sensor plugged in, ziptied up out of the way. If you don't leave the MAF sensor plugged in, it wont run right.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Keep in mind on your intake air temp sensor, your cutting and disconnecting the two wires from the MAF sensor.... soldering your new sensor into the wiring harness side....but you still have to keep the MAF sensor plugged in, ziptied up out of the way. If you don't leave the MAF sensor plugged in, it wont run right.
So how about this cringe worthy story. My father brought the turbo to a Napa store to try and get fittings instead of waiting on PRL. Instead of setting it someplace secure, he must’ve set it on the edge of a table and it managed to fall off with no one near it. He said it “rolled off” 🙄. Well now we have a bent back plate that that prevents the turbine from spinning AND and slight bur inside the compressor housing (assuming from the turbine wheel hitting it). Now i don’t know much about turbos and tolerances. But In this case. Could we sand out the slight bur with scotch bright and replace the back plate and still have a proper functioning turbo? The turbine itself does not seem to have been bent or damaged in any way. But i don’t want to get replacement parts and have it fail while driving the car. So i guess the main question is. Are we now out 1000$ for a new turbo????
 

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Your best bet is to call Garrett. Pictures would help.
Do you happen to know where the little plastic one way valve goes that came with the turbo kit? I’m not home at the moment but will provide a picture as soon as i can if you don’t know what I’m referring to. We ran the car yesterday and today and everything seems to be in working order. We’ve been using the hondata base map and waiting on e-tunez to get back to us.
 

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That's to prevent filling your gas tank with compressed air. Lemme see if I can find a pick.
 

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Best picture I have of it.
Gotcha, so is it a big deal that we don’t have that in right now? And how long does it take for etunez to get back to people cause i purchased the ultimate tune and turbo add on July 9th and haven’t heard anything
 

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Gotcha, so is it a big deal that we don’t have that in right now? And how long does it take for etunez to get back to people cause i purchased the ultimate tune and turbo add on July 9th and haven’t heard anything
Eh, Id fix it as soon as you can, a boost leak into your gas tank is not ideal. It's easy to put in, arrow points towards engine IIRC. Etunez I have no clue, I Dyno tuned mine. I'd try calling them, or maybe someone with etunez experience will respond.
 
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