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Oh boy. Gonna install it and the Acuity CAI hopefully this coming weekend, if I get a base map from etunez this week. Too bad I don't know one who wants to help around here.
 

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Hi Everyone,
I've read this whole thread a couple of times now lol. I am still worried about the RV6 Catted DP and the noise. It seems that some people are saying it is still raspy and a couple of vidoes seems to reflect that. I really don't wanna sound like rice! Anyone have some feedback for me on that?
 

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Hi Everyone,
I've read this whole thread a couple of times now lol. I am still worried about the RV6 Catted DP and the noise. It seems that some people are saying it is still raspy and a couple of vidoes seems to reflect that. I really don't wanna sound like rice! Anyone have some feedback for me on that?
It really depends what exhaust you pair it with.

A catted dp with the stock exhaust or the q300 will have a deep and non-ricey tone. It's when you slap a N1 or skunk2 exhaust with a dp that it becomes really loud and raspy (sounds great at WOT tho). Most users with catless dp's complain about rasp. I've had my used catted rv6 and q300 for almost a year now and the sound is spot on where I wanted it to be. Only complaint is that it can be a bit droney pass 3.5k, but there is no rasp that I can complain about.
 

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Just thought I'd chime in on this ancient thread with a quick review...
I installed a used catted RV6 a couple weeks ago and my only regret was not going ahead sooner. There were a couple things holding me back based on some comments in here, and I have to say none of them were really justified in my case (though every car will respond differently).
First off, as already mentioned numerous times, build quality is beyond excellent, along with fitment. For reference, I'm still using my stock catback.
Many socket extensions and u-joints in different combinations gave me access to all bolts without many issues. One springbolt bound in some rust so I impacted till it snapped, and one bolt on the collector flange was fused with rust which was also snapped with the impact. Otherwise removal of the stock pipe was relatively simple.
Install was a breeze and everything lined up perfectly. A lot of people mention that the defouler is in the wrong place, however it's in the exact same place as the stock O2 bung. Even if they positioned it after the cat, the cat on aftermarket pipes is a high flow race version which would still trigger the O2 sensor to throw a code. Plus you'd need an extension harness which is just one more thing to go wrong over time.
Torque everything evenly, but don't overtighten like a Hulk, especially the secondary O2 sensor.
Sound is not much louder than stock at all (extra volume at cold start and WOT), just a much deeper tone than stock, which is exactly what I was hoping for. There is no need for a RMM with this downpipe, unlike a 3". Plenty of clearance for everything underneath, and have had no contact with the subframe even after a handful of launches with launch control.
Last but not least, if installed correctly this will not throw a CEL. Resist the temptation to start the engine to hear "open headers". Get the new pipe installed, start the car and let it idle (no revving) for at least 10 minutes. Turn the engine off, then restart and rev to your heart's content.
Throttle response is much improved over stock, and although it's just "butt dyno" at this point, there is a definite bump in power and torque, even without a tune. That said, I'm currently running on Hondata's reflash. I will be getting a full e-tune done in the spring. The only reason I'm waiting on that is I currently live in the Rockies at roughly 5000' elevation, but will be moving to sea level next spring and don't want to pay for a retune just because of a (drastic) elevation change.
This might be a bit of a haphazard review, but doing this at work so I can't keep all my attention on this, lol.
Long story short, if you're thinking about this downpipe, go for it.
 
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