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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have changed out my speakers in my LX Coupe for alpine components up front and Coaxials in the rear. I now have to really crank the system to get a decent volume and have lost bass response due to low power output of the factory head unit. I would like to retain the factory HU but add an amplifier in line. A lot of times there is room behind the dash for a small 4-channel amplifier. Has anyone mounted an amp in a stealthy location, preferably in the front half of the vehicle ? If so what brand amplifier and where/how did you mount it?


Found this amp and looks like it might fit somewhere behind the dash :)
[h=1]Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4[/h]
 

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Hey, I have this same question. I'm looking to stealth mount a 4 channel to power my 4 new Polk DB652's.

Anyone have tips or success stories?
 

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There is lots of room under the front seats for an amp. I installed a Planet Audio AC1000.2 under my front passenger seat with room to spare. I also put a Sound Ordinance 8" powered sub under my driver's seat. Since the "carpet" is not actually real automotive carpet but some kind of felt hybrid fabric, I found that a couple of long strips of the hard side of heavy duty velcro will hold both amps in place very well. Both amps are stuck like glue and I did not want to put screws through my floor pan.

I took pics of my Planet Audio amp, but have not taken any pics of the sub yet, I just installed it yesterday. I have Rockford R165X3's in the front doors and rear deck and a set of Rockford R1T-S tweeters on my front door panels connected to the Planet Audio amp. I used a PAC LP-7 line out convertor to interface the amp and sub with my Honda OEM radio. I wired the amp and sub with 8 gauge Stinger 100% OFC power and ground wire. The system sounds great for what it is. It won't wake up the neighbors or rattle the trunk lid but it sounds very good to me. I listen to hard rock and classic rock, sometimes stream Slacker Radio from my phone.

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Jimmy
 

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I'm not 100% sure which amp I have, but I think it's the Alpine MRP-m650. I also have mine mounted under the passenger front seat like Jimmy1358.
 
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I fit both my amps under the passenger seat in my 14 SI coupe, most of the smaller class D 4 channel amps will fit with little to no issue

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Edit....

My Planet Audio AC 1000.2 amp sounded good for the first few days but developed a serious noise problem, system noise and bad humming through the speakers no matter where I had the amp gain or PAC line out convertor gain set. The input sensitivity switch also broke and the amp started to sound like complete garbage so I knew it was toast.

I bought a new Rockford Fosgate Prime RX300.4 amp on Amazon. It is a lot better than the Planet amp, sounds great and has good loud volume. It has a nice warm fat sound quality, almost like a tube amp and it is pretty heavy for 50 watts per channel so that tells me it should have a good solid power supply. I took a few pics of it today after I installed it.

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You can only see just the last few inches of the amp with the seat moved back. I used velcro to hold it down and the controls are accessible if I ever need to tweak the gains. Another good thing I like about the RX300 is they have a switch to use all 4 inputs with a single RCA cable so there is no need for Y-adapters. I am pretty happy with this new Rockford amp.

I took a few pics of my sub today too. It does not poke out very far from the seat either, and the controls are all on one end if I need to change anything.

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I put the volume knob for the sub in the storage pocket, out of sight. I may move it to a spot on the dash or console later.

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These last few pics are sideways and I can not fix them. Overall I am very happy with my system. I have been trying to get the right sound for a long time and it does sound very good now. I was trying to save money with a cheap amp but found out there really is no such thing as cheap good car audio. It is best to buy a name brand.

Jimmy
 

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Edit....

My Planet Audio AC 1000.2 amp sounded good for the first few days but developed a serious noise problem, system noise and bad humming through the speakers no matter where I had the amp gain or PAC line out convertor gain set. The input sensitivity switch also broke and the amp started to sound like complete garbage so I knew it was toast.

I bought a new Rockford Fosgate Prime RX300.4 amp on Amazon. It is a lot better than the Planet amp, sounds great and has good loud volume. It has a nice warm fat sound quality, almost like a tube amp and it is pretty heavy for 50 watts per channel so that tells me it should have a good solid power supply. I took a few pics of it today after I installed it.

View attachment 462289 View attachment 462297 View attachment 462305 View attachment 462313 View attachment 462313

You can only see just the last few inches of the amp with the seat moved back. I used velcro to hold it down and the controls are accessible if I ever need to tweak the gains. Another good thing I like about the RX300 is they have a switch to use all 4 inputs with a single RCA cable so there is no need for Y-adapters. I am pretty happy with this new Rockford amp.

I took a few pics of my sub today too. It does not poke out very far from the seat either, and the controls are all on one end if I need to change anything.

View attachment 462321 View attachment 462329

I put the volume knob for the sub in the storage pocket, out of sight. I may move it to a spot on the dash or console later.

View attachment 462345

These last few pics are sideways and I can not fix them. Overall I am very happy with my system. I have been trying to get the right sound for a long time and it does sound very good now. I was trying to save money with a cheap amp but found out there really is no such thing as cheap good car audio. It is best to buy a name brand.

Jimmy
How difficult is the removal of panels to hide tuck wiring in this platform? Been wanting to add an amp and possibly speaker to this car since I just finished doing so on my other.
Great setup btw looks sleek and out of sight.


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How difficult is the removal of panels to hide tuck wiring in this platform? Been wanting to add an amp and possibly speaker to this car since I just finished doing so on my other.
Great setup btw looks sleek and out of sight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I depends on what you are wanting to add, just a sub, not all that bad as you can feed all the wires thru the areas where the seats bolt in, if you are looking to do all speakers it gets a little rougher especially if you are not using Mercman's harness as you will need to tap the speaker outs at the amp to feed them to either the high level input on the amp or to an LOC to convert the signal, then you have another set of lines going back to the speakers.
 

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How difficult is the removal of panels to hide tuck wiring in this platform? Been wanting to add an amp and possibly speaker to this car since I just finished doing so on my other.
Great setup btw looks sleek and out of sight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My Civic is one of the easiest cars I have ever run wires in. The only trouble I had was with the door sill covers, the retainer pins must be a one-time use because most of them broke when I removed the panels. The panels take a little patience to reinstall as well. I had to buy some new retainer pins at Auto Zone. There is a nice big empty grommet in the driver's kick panel to run power wire through the inside of the wheel well and out to the battery. There are several cuts and holes already in the carpet under the seats to get wires to an amplifier, plus on the cross member running horizontal on the floor pan under each seat there is a factory ground lug with a 10mm bolt, which makes a great ground point for an amp.

My radio is the basic stock AM-FM-CD deck so I just connected my line out convertor to the front speaker outputs so that the blue tooth calls could still be heard through the system. I do not care about a fader or front to rear balance so I only needed one pair of left and right stereo outputs. The PAC LP7 handles the higher power front outputs very well. To be honest I do not know what a Mercman harness is.

The door panels on my car were super easy to remove and the retainer pins all stayed intact and worked fine when I reinstalled the panels. The rear speakers were a little more work but not hard at all to replace. I made my own mounting adapters for my front door speakers out of half-inch mdf, but used a set of American International speaker adapters for the rear deck. It was much easier to use those because they snap in and use a bolt to hold them down, just like the factory speakers do. The adapters are plastic but so far they do not rattle.

The front door panels are easy to remove, just start at the front end of the window/door lock panel and pop it up with a trim removal tool, disconnect the switches and remove the one screw below the panel. Then grab the bottom edge of the door panel at one corner or the other, pull the panel outward, and un-snap it off the door. The factory speakers have 2 plastic legs that hold the bottom edge in holes in the door and one bolt holding the top of the speaker on. Remove the bolt and pull straight up kind of hard on the top of the speaker to remove it.

On the rear speakers you start by pulling the plastic retainers on the rear seat bottom cushion out towards you and lifting the seat up to remove it. I had to use pliers on the seat retainers in my car, they are small and hard to grip by hand. The retainers are small black plastic tabs located on the front side of the bottom seat, down right above where the seat meets the carpet, one on each end of the seat bottom. Then remove the 10mm bolt that holds the back side of the cushion in to the floor pan, the bolt is just to your right of the passenger seat belt buckle location. To find the bolt you have to reach between the backs of the seat and the bottom cushion to feel the bolt and the rounded steel u-shaped brace it goes through. Then you remove the seat bottom and the 10 mm bolts holding the back side cushions in, lift them up and out of the car. Then fold down the rear seat (on my car I first put down a few folded towels on the rear seat floor pan to keep the seat back clean) and pull out on each rear side sail panel, it can help to and snap out the little air bag cover insert in each one first, then pop the panel out to remove it. Then unplug the third brake light bulb from underneath the rear deck. Starting at one corner or the other, pull up on the rear deck and work your way across popping out the retainer pins to remove it. The rear speakers are mounted just like the front speakers, remove the screw and pull the speaker towards the screw hole to remove it from the deck.

The aftermarket speaker installation adapters work better in the rear deck because the rear glass limits your ability to run new screws in and attach mdf adapters. MDF could still be used in the rear deck but the aftermarket adapters make the job a lot easier and faster. You can also buy speaker wire adapters that will take the guess work out of connecting new speakers. I bought my speaker mounting adapters and wire harnesses from Amazon, they had the best price.

My whole system sounds great now. The only thing I might change is the sub volume knob. The circuit board is very basic and can easily be removed from its housing. Some time in the future I would like to drill a hole in the console or dash somewhere so I can just reach down to adjust the bass without having to open the storage pocket first. If I do relocate it I want to find a smaller more low profile knob for it but for now it works fine the way it is.

Jimmy
 
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