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I have a 2013 Si Sedan... has anyone had clearance issues with the 24mm progress RSB? I have had it for a while but started hearing a clunking a few weeks ago. I thought it would have been the end links (I still have the progress end links) but they were not loose at all. I took them off and inspected them and they seem just fine. After a closer look, I see that I have almost no clearance at the middle of the sway bar and I can see that part of the finish on the sway bar has rubbed off. I think it is getting caught and that is what the popping sound is coming from. Any suggestions? These photos are of the suspension at ride height.
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You didn't buy the wrong RSB, I had the exact same problem. When I contacted Progress they were a bit surprised, as was I! Here's how to resolve it....the spacers they give you in the kit, the ones that are meant for the R18, use those, you'll need to modify it, I know PITA, but when I did it, it stopped making noise. I regret not saying this earlier in my post before, if I had to do it all over again I would have liked if Progress was able to tell me ahead of time the issue. I had posted pictures of my issue, which looks identical to my issue on ********'s website.

It's a pain, I feel ya, I really do, it took me a while to figure out what to do about it. It has nothing to do with the car being lowered or anything like that. My 2012 Si was stock, I even disconnected and reconnected the R and L brackets for the RSB...in some magical attempt to work, it did nothing. If you can't modify the spacers I would use a few washers in between, like just enough to give you a few millimeters of space. The bolts back there are 14mm I believe. The issue is the bar is hitting the back of your car, where the LCA connect to the frame. I actually had it pretty bad because it took some of my paint off!

Good luck buddy
 

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I, it so sure it isn't the wrong bar. My bar doesn't rub or make any noise st all, and I didn't modify anything.
because you order the rsb from me, i was able to figure it out after i warranty 3 24mm rsb a while back.

progress did fix the issues last year along with their end link.
 

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because you order the rsb from me, i was able to figure it out after i warranty 3 24mm rsb a while back.

progress did fix the issues last year along with their end link.

That's not gonna help the kid out now, the bar is already installed. It's fantastic you can warranty a product, but that solution is meant before someone buys the bar....not after it's already installed. I get you want another customer, we all want to make money, but if you have some practical advice, maybe you should be posting that instead....
 

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because you order the rsb from me, i was able to figure it out after i warranty 3 24mm rsb a while back.

progress did fix the issues last year along with their end link.

If you were able to get a new one from progress, I'm sure Chris should be able to get me a new one under warranty...
I would be OK doing the work replacing it if I don't have to pay for a new one...
 

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You didn't buy the wrong RSB, I had the exact same problem. When I contacted Progress they were a bit surprised, as was I! Here's how to resolve it....the spacers they give you in the kit, the ones that are meant for the R18, use those, you'll need to modify it, I know PITA, but when I did it, it stopped making noise. I regret not saying this earlier in my post before, if I had to do it all over again I would have liked if Progress was able to tell me ahead of time the issue. I had posted pictures of my issue, which looks identical to my issue on ********'s website.

It's a pain, I feel ya, I really do, it took me a while to figure out what to do about it. It has nothing to do with the car being lowered or anything like that. My 2012 Si was stock, I even disconnected and reconnected the R and L brackets for the RSB...in some magical attempt to work, it did nothing. If you can't modify the spacers I would use a few washers in between, like just enough to give you a few millimeters of space. The bolts back there are 14mm I believe. The issue is the bar is hitting the back of your car, where the LCA connect to the frame. I actually had it pretty bad because it took some of my paint off!

Good luck buddy

Thank you very much for the reply! I am relieved to know that this has happened to someone else and that I did not install it incorrectly!
I still have all the original hardware, so I will certainly use the R18 spacers like you did unless I hear otherwise from Chris or progress... if it really is the wrong sway bar, it would be nice to get the correct one for free... Either way, I will probably end up installing those spacers this weekend to stop the madness. I will post pictures after. It should not be as bad as installing it in the first place, right?... I should be able to just unbolt and slide in the spacers...
Thanks again!!!
 

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Like I said, the sway bar isn't the wrong part number, I also checked into the same thing you did online with the difference in the directions PFD. I believe, because the bar is so much thicker, it was already a challenge to squeeze it into that tight of a space, because as you know, that space where it has to go is maybe 4 inches and that might even be an exaggeration.

You cannot simply slide in the spacers, the holes are slightly too small, hence the modification process I mentioned before. If you have a drill, and something to hold it in place (other than your hand), you will need to widen those holes ever so slightly.

The spacers then line up against the bracket in between the bushing and the OEM bolts are long enough (I recommend re-greasing the bushing first) because you will see that the bolts are barely long enough, you'll get all the thread you'll need but you will have to tighten it a bit more than the torque spec listed on the instructions.

I called progress when this happened and the guy said the spacers wouldn't affect performance since were only talking a very slight variation.

good luck! (have free time to tackle this)
 

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I am telling you, I have the 24mm bar and I didn't have to use spacers and didn't modify anything, and I have zero issues.
That is very strange... is it possible that my 2013 is just a few mm difference in clearance than your 2014?...
It is not rubbing much as is evident in the photos... not much of the finish on the RSB has rubbed off so it could literally be a few mm difference... there could easily be that much variation just between two cars off the same assembly line... lol idk
 

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Like I said, the sway bar isn't the wrong part number, I also checked into the same thing you did online with the difference in the directions PFD. I believe, because the bar is so much thicker, it was already a challenge to squeeze it into that tight of a space, because as you know, that space where it has to go is maybe 4 inches and that might even be an exaggeration.

You cannot simply slide in the spacers, the holes are slightly too small, hence the modification process I mentioned before. If you have a drill, and something to hold it in place (other than your hand), you will need to widen those holes ever so slightly.

The spacers then line up against the bracket in between the bushing and the OEM bolts are long enough (I recommend re-greasing the bushing first) because you will see that the bolts are barely long enough, you'll get all the thread you'll need but you will have to tighten it a bit more than the torque spec listed on the instructions.

I called progress when this happened and the guy said the spacers wouldn't affect performance since were only talking a very slight variation.

good luck! (have free time to tackle this)

Got it... I can definitely drill out those spacers... I will probably just purchase longer bolts while I am at it...
Thanks a lot for your help! I will let you know how it goes. Should be able to knock this out this weekend...
 

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You also might have the bar installed upside down.


I did think of that but I am pretty sure it is correct... I double-checked when installing and everything looked exactly the same as the pictures provided in the instructions by progress... I think I would probably be having more problems if installed upside down, right?... I have seem pictures on here of people installing upside down and the ends of the sway bar bump into the end links and cause them to fail... here is what mine looks like...

20170218_142157.jpg


and here is the picture from the instructions from progress for the 8th and 9th gen civics...

Capture.JPG

looks the same, right?
 

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Is a 24mm bar better then say a 16mm or 19mm? I'm thinking of getting the UR rear sway bar which only come in 16mm and 19mm. Isn't there a type r bar that fits too? I'm not sure what the mm is on that one though...


The mm is the thickness of the bar in millimeters... the thicker the bar, the less body roll and understeer you will have. I believe stock size on the Si is 19mm in the rear so anything smaller than that will only increase body roll and understeer...
 

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Is a 24mm bar better then say a 16mm or 19mm? I'm thinking of getting the UR rear sway bar which only come in 16mm and 19mm. Isn't there a type r bar that fits too? I'm not sure what the mm is on that one though...

stock is 21mm front, 20mm rear, the set up will allow the car to behave (understeer), when you have thicker rear sway bar, it will induce more oversteer, oversteer will make turning/cornering easier.

if font & rear are equal on a square set up vehicle like a civic ? it will give you a neutral set up

that is why many street cars went with 21mm front & 21mm civic type-r rear & if they need more oversteer ? they can add rear tower bar to induce more oversteer without the need of a thicker sway bar.
 

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stock is 21mm front, 20mm rear, the set up will allow the car to behave (understeer), when you have thicker rear sway bar, it will induce more oversteer, oversteer will make turning/cornering easier.

if font & rear are equal on a square set up vehicle like a civic ? it will give you a neutral set up

that is why many street cars went with 21mm front & 21mm civic type-r rear & if they need more oversteer ? they can add rear tower bar to induce more oversteer without the need of a thicker sway bar.
Looks like the type r rear is the way to go then. Send me a price on it when you have time. Thanks man.
 
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