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Got it... I can definitely drill out those spacers... I will probably just purchase longer bolts while I am at it...
Thanks a lot for your help! I will let you know how it goes. Should be able to knock this out this weekend...

I was able to add the spacers this weekend... I actually did not have the ones that came with the kit (I threw them out because directions specifically stated they were for non-Si models)... so I ended up buying some 1/8" thick aluminum plate and fabricating my own.

Long story short, this solved the problem 100%. No more clunking or popping. The sway bar now has enough clearance to rotate and do it's job with banging against the frame. Thank you turkeyfeast123 for replying to my post!

20170225_104440.jpg 20170225_150047.jpg 20170225_150155.jpg
 

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kmaddux37, glad to have helped, looks just like mine did after the spacers were installed. I am considering taking a poke back there in the future, when I replaced the endlinks with Moog ones. The plates you made look really good! Glad everything worked out well!
 

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I was able to add the spacers this weekend... I actually did not have the ones that came with the kit (I threw them out because directions specifically stated they were for non-Si models)... so I ended up buying some 1/8" thick aluminum plate and fabricating my own.

Long story short, this solved the problem 100%. No more clunking or popping. The sway bar now has enough clearance to rotate and do it's job with banging against the frame.

Pming you. I think I have the same issue with my 24mm bar =(
 

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I developed a knock at my drivers rear wheel again. The salt last winter chewed through the crap metal of the cradle/bracket so easily and it straight up tore. If it's that again, I need to upgrade my brackets somehow.
 

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Anyone have the Ultra Racing sway bar? I kinda want it, but think the CTR one might be better and just have it powder coated white to match the rest of the braces I'm getting.

If you are interested in their braces I'm working on getting some discounts for people that want them. I posted a thread here if you might be.
http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/appearance-body-modifications/200233-anyone-interested-ultra-racing-braces-discount.html

i believe they are 19mm, which is smaller than stock
 

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I wanted to take a moment to review the Eibach front sway bar 24mm, which is currently installed on my 2012 civic si with the progress RSB 24mm, also installed. I’ve had the FSB installed now for a few weeks and the car is my DD. The RSB was installed first. I upgraded the front endlinks to moog ones with this install also.

First, the most surprising thing was that I DID NOT have to disconnect the steering rack to install the bar as instructed in the directions. How? Well, I had an advantage of using a lift and the help of a pallet jack, and ratcheting gearwrench wrenches. When dropping the subframe, which involves 8 bolts, 2 of which remain in the front of the subframe at 25% engagement. Once I had room, I disconnected the brackets with the wrenches, 14mm, and was able to squeeze out the old bar and install the new bar. If I had to do it without these tools or the lift, it would be very hard and more dangerous in my opinion.

Performance: Wow, what a change…certainly, you will notice understeer when installing a front bar, but it doesn’t really matter!. I didn’t change the RSB setting, still remains at the soft setting and the front remains at the soft setting too. Likely, in the summer months, I will change the RSB to the medium setting. I say it doesn’t really matter because the performance gains simply outweigh the oh so scary understeer (which in all honesty just makes the car feel like it did before the RSB was installed, so don’t harp on this issue too much). I love the front bar, especially during wet conditions, it makes the car feel much more secure and stable when going into turns, I no longer feel my rear trying to kick out.

The other gains I immediately noticed was the smoothness in turns and with accelerating. The RSB left the rear of the car up higher than stock and the nose was planted down and oversteer was significantly increased, the Eibach bar raises the front back up and evens the car completely, which may sound counter intuitive, but it drastically made the car feel more natural and improved the handling beyond my expectations. Certainly ride harshness will increase, bumps, pot holes and uneven roads are going to be felt more in the car, but if you love to drive this car, you won’t care. The bar makes the car more level and flat, allowing you to accelerate in turns when you otherwise could not. I was impressed that even the simple act of entering/exiting an on-off ramp that I just kept on accelerating without gassing it and acceleration with the FSB installed just became easier.

I have not tracked the car, and don’t plan on it yet, not until other suspension mods are installed, but I would increase the stiffness for both bars when I do. You can certainly push your suspension and driving of this car much easier with the FSB installed. The FSB in my opinion is a must for this car if you have upgraded the RSB already. I opted for the 24mm/24mm bars in front/back because I wanted a neutral feel, it’s all personal preference.

Also, please, please, please, change your endlinks! Buy the moog ones, just suck it up, they aren’t that expensive $35 each or something, it’s a must, it’s a no brainer, the design of those are much better and the ability to take off those bolts will be much easier, especially if you want to play with different settings, if you don’t replace them…you will regret it, I promise you.

Side note, it makes sense that Eibach would make a pro-kit due to how the sway bars lift the car up slightly as they ease the pressure off of the stock suspension, lowering the car now is going to be a must, at least 1-2 inches, which will be the next project. Anyway, thanks for listening, and happy modding to you! (Sorry this is long, I had a lot to say about it!)
 

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Thats weird, I was under the impression the sway bar shouldn't be lifting the car up. When driving straight or sitting there the sway bar is a static piece of suspension. When you installed them did you keep the suspension on tension? (Not at full droop but with the car resting on the wheels.) I do know that the Progress rear bar had adjustable endlinks and different lengths for soft/med & hard. Maybe the Moogs are to long and putting extra tension the sway bar and causing the lift. Just throwing ideas out there.
 

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Thats weird, I was under the impression the sway bar shouldn't be lifting the car up. When driving straight or sitting there the sway bar is a static piece of suspension. When you installed them did you keep the suspension on tension? (Not at full droop but with the car resting on the wheels.) I do know that the Progress rear bar had adjustable endlinks and different lengths for soft/med & hard. Maybe the Moogs are to long and putting extra tension the sway bar and causing the lift. Just throwing ideas out there.

The only option was to install the sway bar while it was on the lift, so yes, full droop was the case. The same exact thing happened with my RSB, the rear lifted up, ever so slightly, which makes sense to me, since the new bar is so much thicker than OEM, it doesn't simply move as one unit, regardless of how much grease you put in the bushings, the suspension basically gets a boost and less pressure is put on the struts/springs/shocks because the thicker sway bar resists being bent in a stronger way than the OEM bar.

The moogs were actually taken off while the car was lowered as well. They were put on while the full droop, and then they were removed again because I had to change the front brake lines due to a stupid mistake on my part. The moogs fit perfectly, both while the car was on the ground and also while it was at full droop. The moog endlinks are very different than the OEM, thickness, weight, the bolts are 15mm instead of 14mm, and they have zerk fittings too. The moog front and rear endlinks are the exact same length as the OEM ones. Hope this helps.
 

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i know this is completely random but i just got a 17 si and im curious will putting on a strut bar mess with the active dampening system and or limited slip diff sorry for noob question havent been spproved to post on 10th gen yet hope soomeone can chime in here :)
 

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The only option was to install the sway bar while it was on the lift, so yes, full droop was the case. The same exact thing happened with my RSB, the rear lifted up, ever so slightly, which makes sense to me, since the new bar is so much thicker than OEM, it doesn't simply move as one unit, regardless of how much grease you put in the bushings, the suspension basically gets a boost and less pressure is put on the struts/springs/shocks because the thicker sway bar resists being bent in a stronger way than the OEM bar.

The moogs were actually taken off while the car was lowered as well. They were put on while the full droop, and then they were removed again because I had to change the front brake lines due to a stupid mistake on my part. The moogs fit perfectly, both while the car was on the ground and also while it was at full droop. The moog endlinks are very different than the OEM, thickness, weight, the bolts are 15mm instead of 14mm, and they have zerk fittings too. The moog front and rear endlinks are the exact same length as the OEM ones. Hope this helps.
I know this is an old comment but thicker/slimmer sway bars should have ZERO impact on ride height if properly installed. Sway bars only work when there is a load on opposing sides, at static ride height they are creating no load.
 

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No. But I would recommend doing an alignment every year to keep the suspension nice and tight especially if you drive on crappy roads. Every year I do an alignment it is always slightly off and needs to be brought back to spec so imagine if you do an alignment every 3-4 years.

It may have been answered or not already so i do apologize in advance. But do i need to have an alignment after replacing sway bar?
 

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No. But I would recommend doing an alignment every year to keep the suspension nice and tight especially if you drive on crappy roads. Every year I do an alignment it is always slightly off and needs to be brought back to spec so imagine if you do an alignment every 3-4 years.
Where do you get your alignments done. I could use a place to get mine done that is good. ��
 

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I think there is a place out in Langley? that is good at doing alignment on lowered/tuner cars. I forgot the name of the place but you should be able to search the name of them on the Revscene website. I just take it to a local tire and wheel shop near my house to do the alignment nothing special about the place. I'm not building a racecar just want to keep my daily driver running well so any place will do for me.

Where do you get your alignments done. I could use a place to get mine done that is good. ��
 
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