So to start off. Seeing all these detailing posts I wanted to show my own progress and work of a detailing kit that I bought. Its called the forum favorite from autogeek.net. This kit includes
10 oz Klasse All-In-One
16.9 oz Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
8 oz. Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax
16 oz. Pinnacle Crystal Mist Carnauba Detail Spray
2 Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels, 16 x 16 inches
1 4”x 5” Microfiber Applicator Pad
1 Poly Foam Wax Applicator Pad
I also went out and bought a 7inch polisher from harbor freight tools.
And some things to detail my wheels since after I start I will be keeping my car garaged for the week.
So I'm going to be busy for a couple of days and right now I'm going to buy a white polishing pad or orange light cutting pad for the all in one and a black finishing pad for the high gloss sealant glaze. Ill post more pictures of my progress later. Today I will wash her and clay bar.
And finally my baby
Looks like a good start. One suggestion, though.: Return the rotary polisher and buy a random orbital machine such as the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336. If you are not a pro with a rotary, you'll cause more harm than good, especially on a black car. You can easily burn the paint or cause marring and buffer trails if you don't know what you are doing. The detailing product list is fine. The Klasse twins are well-respected by many in the detailing community. The Sealant Glaze can be a bit finicky to remove though, so many fans of this product recommend using the wipe-on, wipe-off method as opposed to allowing it to fully haze.
Yea I was looking at one but it was to expensive for me at the time. If I can ask what's the difference? I made sure that the one I bought could change the speed because klasse recommends 1000-1200 rpm for the Polish.
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A rotary may have adjustable speed, but if you don't move the machine fast enough, you'll burn the paint. It requires practice and a good technique to get good results. A RO machine has a counterweight on the shaft and oscillates. It's much safer and does a good job a removing marring and swirls. There's very little chance you'd damage your paint with a random orbital machine.
If your intention is to remove swirl marks, you do not have a product in the list above that will do that. The All-in-One might remove some very minor hazing, but nothing more. You need a diminishing abrasive polish to remove defects like swirls. Maybe one of the more seasoned detailing gurus will chime in with a good recommendation.
A buffing and polishing machine is one thing I would love to learn how to use, I tried many years ago and I burned the crap out of my car, never tried again, if you know how to use one you sure can make a car look super sweet
True, but unless the finish is really trashed, you can probably do almost as good of a job with an RO. The right technique and pad/product combo makes all the difference.
Thanks tnmz6i. Ill keep in mind the tip for the high gloss sealant not to let it fully haze. And as for now I'm just doing this to protect my car from the salt on the roads. I think I will return the polisher. I have to go back and return some car ramps any way so that will make the random orbital a bit easier on my wallet to purchase. As for now I'm going to just use the hand microfiber and foam hand applicators the were given in the kit. Lol kinda scared me outta using the polisher. I mean I paid a good amount for these products and dont want to make anything worse. Thanks again for the info!
Didn't get the dual action one because only 2000 opm and klasse recommended 1000-1200. Got home stared to clean my tires then realized my hose for water has a leak in it and is now getting dark. Ill have to wait till tomorrow to see what I can do about this hose
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OPM (Oscillations per minute) and RPM (revolutions per minute) are not the same thing. The directions on the bottle are only for a rotary. You can ignore them if you are going to use an RO. Just start it at speed 1-2 to spread the product and then move up to 4-6.
The Klasse AIO will only remove imperfections that are in the oxidized portion of the clear .. nothing else.. Read the above post carefully .. he is recommending the Porter Cable 7424 not just any RO which most are crap. The Griots RO or the PC 7424XP along with a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads are whats needed.
Here is some helpful hints for SG
My technique is pretty simple.
In order to apply SG using wipe on, wipe off, you should do the following:
1. Take a new yellow foam applicator and mist it with distilled water.
Squeeze the applicator as much as you can so that most of the water is gone. All you should have is a slightly damp applicator. This will make the SG more pliable.
2. Apply a couple of drops of SG to your applicator and apply it to a section of your car (1/3 of the hood, half of the roof, etc) in a circular motion. Once you have covered the whole section with SG, immediately wipe off the residue with a MF towel that has been lightly misted with distilled water. Wipe off in front to back motion.
3. Repeat step 2 for every section until the whole car is done.
Notes:
- As mentioned before, wipe the SG off immediately, no dry time is necessary. If put on thin the SG flashes nearly immediatly unless the temperature is low or high humidity. If you feel you need to allow more time to dry but it MUST be dry before using the removal method below. Myself I don't apply to the whole car and then remove for a couple of reasons. 1) You might find the process tiring and not be able to finish in one day. 2) If not in a protected area you risk having dust or pollen fall on the car before the removal step.
- The SG should wipe off very easily leaving behind a slick, smooth, and glossy finish.
- You should use no more than 1oz. of SG per coat on a regular size car (BMW 3 Series, Mercedes-Benz C-Class)
- Only perform step 1 one time, before applying SG to the first panel. You do NOT need to spritz your applicator with water before applying SG to each section. Once you apply SG to a couple of sections the applicator will be wet enough with SG, negating the need for more water.
-Do not use any QD to aid in removal of SG. This will / may cause the klasse SG to develop an oily haze/film down the road. I've also experienced this.
- To remove the SG just lightly mist a M/F towel with water ( I use distilled water ) and wipe the SG off. Just a misting or 2 on the towel is enough for a panel.
-Wait AT LEAST 24 hours before applying another coat of SG. SG needs time to cure and bond to your paint surface.
Yay! I was waiting for you to chime in Jesstzn. Lol thanks for the helpful tips. Looks like Im returning my 7inch pads. Never knew how expensive they were! Yea the instructions say to let it all fully haze and to use a qd to wipe it off lol. Thanks again
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Yay! I was waiting for you to chime in Jesstzn. Lol thanks for the helpful tips. Looks like Im returning my 7inch pads. Never knew how expensive they were! Yea the instructions say to let it all fully haze and to use a qd to wipe it off lol. Thanks again
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What instructions? I never get instructions when I buy it. The reason I don't use a qd when removing it is because like any sealant it need time to cure after it dries and using a QD will change the chemistry of the SG... Using distilled water lessens that chance. The formula is what makes it so good.
I've had good luck by using Sonus Acrylic Glanz spray sealant when applying and removing Klasse SG. It's relatively inexpensive and works great as a Klasse booster, IMO. And it doesn't seem to affect the curing of the Klasse at all.
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