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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I was driving and heard a horrible grinding noise from the engine bay for about 10 seconds. At first I thought it was road salt but then the noise suddenly stopped, and my battery charging light came on. I pulled over and popped the hood, to find the serpentine belt off the pulleys and somewhat shredded, and noticed a coolant leak. I cut the belt and pulled it out, and drove back home. It was clear by the behavior of the water pump pulley that it was the culprit, all wobbly and grindy. It took a couple hours, but I got the pump off. Looks like the bearing grenaded and took the seal with it. I have a new pump on order and I will be installing it next week. The lower 3 bolts on the pump were a real pain because it's a tight space. I was somewhat using the service manual, but chose not to take off the crankshaft pulley or splash shield like it says to. I'm not looking forward to putting the new pump on, so if anyone has any tips, I'd appreciate it. I can't even find a video for doing this on a k24z7.
 

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mine is starting to make the chug chug chug noise, bought the replacement, but procrastinating on the job.

its pretty tight in there, up against the frame rail.

thanks for the motivation!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
mine is starting to make the chug chug chug noise, bought the replacement, but procrastinating on the job.

its pretty tight in there, up against the frame rail.

thanks for the motivation!
Mine had been making an intermittent squeaking noise for a couple months, which is why I replaced the belt. But I made the mistake of not testing the pulleys while I had the belt off. It probably would've been obvious that the bearing was unhappy. Funny enough, the most expensive part of this is my hood liner got shredded by the serpentine belt while it was going wild. Those go for $200 new, so I'll either see if I can grab one from a junk yard, or bite the bullet and get a new one.

My part comes Monday, so I'll let you know how it goes. As far as getting it off, I took off the idler and tensioner assemblies, and enough of the FR wheel well liner, to be able to get at the lowest of the 6 screws on the water pump. The other 5 screws, I did from above, but the lowest 2 of those 5 are a pain because you have to go through the holes of the pulley, and like you said, it's right against the frame rail. I used a 1/4" ratchet with about a foot of copper pipe to extend the handle, and that worked OK but you have to be patient.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got everything put back together yesterday afternoon. It went quicker than the disassembly. For the hard to reach bolts, I used a long 12mm 1/4" socket with a piece of tape to hold the bolt into it. I just threaded those by hand without the ratchet, and then torqued everything down with the 1/4" ratchet once all bolts were finger tight. Couldn't have done it without good lighting and patience.
 
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