9th Gen Civic Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just beginning to get into autocross this year after being introduced to it last year. Looking to get a set of performance wheels and tires for it. Last year my driving was apparently pretty damn good, at least according to the instructors that rode with me. They all said that the biggest thing holding me back was tires, so I'm looking to upgrade over the stock all-seasons I have now.

Right now I'm looking at a set of Enkei RPF1s running Potenza RE-71R tires. I'm having trouble deciding whether I should get 16 or 17 inch wheels. The RPF1s come in both sizes and the Potenzas are available for both sizes as well.

Any advice on what the pros/cons for each might be would be much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
17x9 +35 offset rpf1s seem to be a popular choice, usually paired with michelin pilot super sports. 16s are too small, most won't even clear the brakes.

Other than performance upgrades, handling upgrades to help with autocross are upgraded pads/rotors (HPS+ pads, stoptech rotors seem like a good combo) or a big brake kit (Buddyclub, wilwood), stainless steel lines, gutting the rear, removing the spare tire, stiffer coilovers (Buddyclubs recommended).

I don't autocross but I have spent quite some time on this forum lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
989 Posts
What kevvo said.

also i think we're making the assumption that you have an Si.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
I agree with Kevvo as well Enkei, but they weren't my taste. I went with Konig Hypergrams in 17x9 +25 for my first choice of wheels, made the same way as Enkei wheels but less expensive. I believe I picked up my set for 650$ which isn't bad for 16lbs per wheel. I just use Federal 595rs tires as they're really cheap about 450$ for a set depending on the size. May get another set of Konig wheels and just run slicks since they're so cheap. Sometime if I ever crack one which I'm trying to, I may bite the bullet on a set of BuddyClub, Gram Lights, Volk, or those sexy ass Advan Rz2's.

I run Hawk HPS+ pads, Stoptech slotted/drilled (overkill), stainless steel lines and Amsoil dot4 dominator on brakes and NEVER get fade.

All subframe braces and especially the trunk brace will stiffen the body from jiggling.

Progress 24mm Rear Sway bar was probably my favorite performance upgrade outside coilovers. Sharpens and increases steering response and gives the car a feeling of standing on its tip toes. extremely nimble on hard.

Check out Konig flow formed line up, lightweight and strong and inexpensive.
https://konigwheels.com/wheels/flow-formed-wheels/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is if you're planning on running in the street class HS or moving into STX (if you're driving an Si) or STS (non-Si). To stay in the HS class you must run OEM width, you must stay within 1" (up or down) of OEM diameter, and offset can not be more than 0.275" different than OEM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey all! Thanks for all the responses! Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I thought I had set it up to notify me when someone responded but I guess I messed it up.

To answer some of the questions: I have a '13 Si sedan and plan to run in H Street.

I do plan to add a rear sway bar at some point, but for now I'm just sticking with wheels and tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So it looks like I should be running 17"s with the stock width and offset, but what size tire makes the most sense for autocross? Stick with stock size? Or increase the width as much as I can? Would getting something larger diameter (giving a larger sidewall) have any benefits?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,513 Posts
A wider tire will have more lateral grip and a short sidewall should reduce flex. Maybe 235/40/17? Not sure if that tire width would cause any issues with the front strut on stock wheel/offset

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

·
I Need A Vacation
Joined
·
13,939 Posts
On stock width 7inches I don't think you can go any wider than 225 but that should be more than adequate for autocross on your Civic.

So it looks like I should be running 17"s with the stock width and offset, but what size tire makes the most sense for autocross? Stick with stock size? Or increase the width as much as I can? Would getting something larger diameter (giving a larger sidewall) have any benefits?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Per the rules, you can go to 38mm offset on your rims. If the OEM is 45mm, the rules will allow going to 38mm. I myself am ordering Enkei Performance J10 (17x7) for rims, with Potenza RE-71R (215/45R17). It seems to be pretty stock sizes, except for the added offset. 16" rims may not clear the brakes, and there is no sense in adding weight and cost for the 18" rims just to look fly. Just my two cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Hi all,

I am potentially going to set up the car for HS too. So is it safe to assume 245/40/17 Re71Rs are not gonna fit on the fronts like they do on the 8th gens?

Did this car ever get crash bolts to increase front camber? I tried looking and haven't found any part numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
are camber bolts legal in HS? if yes, I'd do this setup:
2 camber bolts per side for max negative camber in the front (the ~$50 dollar investment here will pay for itself within 1 set of tires besides the handling benefit), which should be -2.7 if the claims are true, 0 toe all around, or maybe a hint of toe out in front (no more than 1/32") if you're feeling brave
235/45-17 front tires and get as close as you can to that +38 offset for a wider track for the most possible front grip/stability/turn in/direction change. if spacers are allowed, use spacers, safely (see below for my thoughts on spacers).
225/45-17 rear tires. you can go 7mm wider offset, does this mean you can also go 7mm narrower? if yes, run as close to that +52 offset as you can, this will help with rotating the rear around corners.

the logic here is that the negative camber up front will help combat the extra sidewall you have from the wider and taller tire, but the wider tire will give you more grip and the taller tire will extend that second gear a little. unless your local club is always running on super tight courses, the stock 2nd gear max speed will be a limiting factor... taller tire will give you a little more mph before you're sitting on the rev limiter. also, never shift to 3rd unless you have enough space to be full throttle in 3rd gear for at least a full 2 seconds.
the narrower rear, both tire and offset will help combat understeer, which will be an issue on stock suspension in a fwd car, even with a bigger rear swaybar.


if you can't run camber bolts in HS, stick to 225. 225/215 could be beneficial for that rear end rotation. I'd prolly even say stick to 18's, the shorter sidewall will keep more of the tread on the ground when working with little to no camber. same offset suggestions apply.


spacer stuff:
3mm spacers are dirt cheap on amazon and safe to use on stock length studs, anything bigger than that, personally I wouldn't run without longer wheel studs. as far as the kind of spacers that bolt to your hub and then the wheel bolts to the spacer, my personal safety margin is at least 1" thick. this is for track/autox, for the street, as long as you go with a reputable brand of this type of spacer you'll prolly be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
are camber bolts legal in HS? if yes, I'd do this setup:
2 camber bolts per side for max negative camber in the front (the ~$50 dollar investment here will pay for itself within 1 set of tires besides the handling benefit), which should be -2.7 if the claims are true, 0 toe all around, or maybe a hint of toe out in front (no more than 1/32") if you're feeling brave
235/45-17 front tires and get as close as you can to that +38 offset for a wider track for the most possible front grip/stability/turn in/direction change. if spacers are allowed, use spacers, safely (see below for my thoughts on spacers).
225/45-17 rear tires. you can go 7mm wider offset, does this mean you can also go 7mm narrower? if yes, run as close to that +52 offset as you can, this will help with rotating the rear around corners.

the logic here is that the negative camber up front will help combat the extra sidewall you have from the wider and taller tire, but the wider tire will give you more grip and the taller tire will extend that second gear a little. unless your local club is always running on super tight courses, the stock 2nd gear max speed will be a limiting factor... taller tire will give you a little more mph before you're sitting on the rev limiter. also, never shift to 3rd unless you have enough space to be full throttle in 3rd gear for at least a full 2 seconds.
the narrower rear, both tire and offset will help combat understeer, which will be an issue on stock suspension in a fwd car, even with a bigger rear swaybar.


if you can't run camber bolts in HS, stick to 225. 225/215 could be beneficial for that rear end rotation. I'd prolly even say stick to 18's, the shorter sidewall will keep more of the tread on the ground when working with little to no camber. same offset suggestions apply.


spacer stuff:
3mm spacers are dirt cheap on amazon and safe to use on stock length studs, anything bigger than that, personally I wouldn't run without longer wheel studs. as far as the kind of spacers that bolt to your hub and then the wheel bolts to the spacer, my personal safety margin is at least 1" thick. this is for track/autox, for the street, as long as you go with a reputable brand of this type of spacer you'll prolly be fine.
Camber bolts are not allowed in HS. Factory Crash bolts are.
I would use spacers if the wheel choice necessitates it to get the full width to fit a fatter tire. Anyways, I'd go with 17's or 16's since those tires are much cheaper and lighter than 18's. I think I'm going to ask my friend to see if I can test fit his 17x8 hypergrams with 255's bfg Rival S 1.5 on it. He also currently runs HS with a 10th gen civic sport hatch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Camber bolts are not allowed in HS. Factory Crash bolts are.
I would use spacers if the wheel choice necessitates it to get the full width to fit a fatter tire. Anyways, I'd go with 17's or 16's since those tires are much cheaper and lighter than 18's. I think I'm going to ask my friend to see if I can test fit his 17x8 hypergrams with 255's bfg Rival S 1.5 on it. He also currently runs HS with a 10th gen civic sport hatch.
how much camber can you get with the factory crashbolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I’m not sure. But more than the factory bolts. I think .8 is usually normal for stock class


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yeah, thats not nearly enough to justify 235's on a 7" wheel... I'd stick with 225's, 18's will be a bit faster, 17's will save you some money on tires...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
yeah, thats not nearly enough to justify 235's on a 7" wheel... I'd stick with 225's, 18's will be a bit faster, 17's will save you some money on tires...
You haven’t seen the people I run with.. we will stuff the widest tire if we can just go get that competitive edge while destroying the outside edge of the tire due to lack of camber


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
You haven’t seen the people I run with.. we will stuff the widest tire if we can just go get that competitive edge while destroying the outside edge of the tire due to lack of camber


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
depends on the tire you run... if you have a stiff enough sidewall, you can get away with it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Bridgestone re71r and bf Goodrich rival 1.5s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
have you tested them back to back? massively overwide vs just a little too wide?
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top