[RR'12SiCp]

Where do I run the power wire through the firewall in my 2012 Si Coupe?
Pictures would be really appreciated!


Other Questions...
How easy is it to run the power wire back through the rest of the vehicle?
Which fuse did you tap into for the remote wire?


Much thanks to Fuma419 for posting how to remove the rear deck!

 

[Burns]

I did this in an LX, so I don't know if it's the same or if there's a clutch in the way or whatever but here goes:

I used a straightened coat hanger to thread the wire through the firewall. Straighten coat hanger, electric tape an end of your power wire (use alot of tape) to the coathanger and go from the interior of the car to the engine bay. In the LX there's a little foot rest where your left foot would be. Either behind it or near it there's a rubber thing that lets wires pass through to the engine bay, go in there. It gets a little cramped once you get through the firewall though, just be patient and you'll get it.

All of the floor boards pop up and you can run the wire under them. Once I got to the backseat I threaded the wire under the plastic wall thing and then under the back seat, and lastly, under the hinge of the backseat and into the trunk.

Also the tap for the remote wire I want to say is the purple one. I used a wire diagram that I think I found on this site but it was a few months ago so I don't remember where it is.

 

[Fuma419]

I ran a 4 gauge through the RH boot. On the EXL coupe i dropped the glovebox and reached around the blower thingy. Then i cut the electrical tape on the boot on the engine compartment side. Then I lubed up the wire with some vacuum grease and shoved it though. Went pretty well and had easy access to it in the engine compartment.

thanks for the shout out on the "how to remove the rear deck"

 

[Fuma419]

as far as remote wire i didn't run one, my amp sensed power on automatically through the line inputs

 

[BirdsBeChirpin]

Anyone got pictures?

 

[MoreMoneyThanSense]

I ran 0 gauge through where all the other wires are ran. If you look on the drivers side under the dash you will see tons of taped wires there running through a big rubber boot/gromet. just pull the absolute ^$%# out of it and it will come out. Run the wire though and then trim the boot to fit around it and put it back. It will look as clean as factory.

 

[RR'12SiCp]

I found the easiest way by far (and the safest) to run your power wire! It is clean and it will not get in the way of anything below your feet or in the engine bay, no pulling of wires, moving insulation, etc... guaranteed! I ran 4 gauge wire and there was plenty of room for 0 gauge wire too. There is a grommet / plug right below your hood release wire. It feeds up the side of your car and into the engine bay. (It was made for aftermarket stuff to be run here, well at least it seems that way!) I have a detailed post with pictures on my other thread. Check it out! Detailed Power Wire Run on a 2012 Honda Civic Si Coupe! I hope this helps!

 

[NightFlyer]

^^^
I know this thread is years old, but I just wanted to let everyone know that the suggestion above worked great for me! I was getting ready to drill a hole in the firewall metal when I figured that I'd search this site to see if anyone found anything better, and this did the job. Of course, always verify and check your work with anything you do to your car, as your car may be different than mine.

Just follow the hood release cable to where it runs out of the passenger compartment, on the side above the driver's kick panel. And right near there, at least in my 2015 LX Coupe, there is a blank rubber plug, about 1 inch in diameter. I just popped it off, cut a hole in the rubber plug, then ran the wires through the hole in the rubber plug and then through the factory hole in the metal, to under the hood. Then, I carefully pulled all the wires through from under the hood, got rid of the slack under the dash, and then popped the rubber plug back into place. I tied wires inside the car so that they slope down toward the plug to help prevent water from coming in, but of course, I still need to properly seal the opening in the rubber plug.

It was a little tricky to access the wires on the other side of the metal (it would've been easier if I had the proper tool -- a wire grabber that I used to have when I was a car stereo installer), but it still wasn't bad. They come up in the space between the fender body panel and other under-hood structures, and there is a piece of hard foam in that area to work around, as well.

I'm steadily working on a variety of projects for this car, some of which may not be implemented for months, but I want to get as many wires in place as possible so I don't have to keep "reinventing the wheel" and taking things apart over and over if I don't have to. I've got a dozen wires now running under the hood, and the possible uses for these wires are, in no particular order...

1. An under-hood/engine temperature sensor (not hooking to factory sensors -- this would just be a thermistor mounted to the outside of a radiator hose)
2. An accessory power feed for any project that may need accessory power that is under the hood (including the above-mentioned thermistor)
3. A fused 12 volt battery feed that goes inside the car
4. Knight Rider lights
5. Fog lights
6. Marker lights (meant to be able to be turned on when the car is off to illuminate the vehicle corners to make it visible at night when parked along a curb)
7. Underbody lights ("neons", but will actually be LED's)
8. An alarm siren (not planning to add an extra alarm right away, but in the future, especially if I do exterior mods, I may want something with an impact sensor)
9. A tachometer wire, in case I want to add an auxiliary digital tach in the future (using an inductive sensor and not tied into to the vehicle's engine wiring)
10. Photocell light sensors mounted by the headlights to go to indicators that let me know if there is a burned out bulb.
11. White LED daytime running lights

 

[bdubbin]

I've been contemplating trying this over the Christmas holidays if I get all the pieces... thanks NightFlyer,

 

[Gramser57]

Thanks for this thread, I was able to run my 1/0 power wire with no issues.

 

[bdubbin]

I've been contemplating trying this over the Christmas holidays if I get all the pieces... thanks NightFlyer,

Well; I haven't gotten around to this yet... question... is 16.5' long enough for the power cable?

 

[bdubbin]

Well; I haven't gotten around to this yet... question... is 16.5' long enough for the power cable?

Yes, yes it is.

 

[scottyrocks]

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