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2012-2015 Civic Si BBK Options

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6.1K views 32 replies 8 participants last post by  ELPEPE93  
#1 ·
Hey Guys,

Before you start going off on why I don't need a BBK just listen to my situation. Yes my car power-wise is completely stock and yes I don't track my car but half of my daily commute (1 hour one-way) is curvy backroads. So my dilemma is that I get severe brake fade if I am pushing the car above 80% for more than a mile. 2 or 3 hard decels from at least 80mph and the brakes start to fade. I was able to fix this with better pads (make a lot of f**king dust). With better pads it pushed it up to 4 or 5 hard decels than brake fade becomes apparent, but after 5 mins of hard driving I can start to feel it very noticeably in the pedal to the point that I have to move the pedal twice as far compared to adequately warmed brakes. After 10 mins it is no longer safe to drive the car, where I'll push the pedal all the way to even stop normally. FYI I change my front pads at least every 2-3 months and my rears every year.

So, my biggest issue with the stock setup isn't the feel or the stopping power rather it is the brake fade. The only thing that I have not done is change the rotors, which I think wouldn't move the needle much.

The first option I looked at was Ceika brakes. About $3,800 for fronts and rears. 330mm F/ 286 R.

The second I am leaning more towards is getting Wunderladen's Front EBC BBK for the tenth gen civic which they say will fit only mod is I need brake lines for the 9th gen. And for the rear just the single piston Wilwoods. Total about $2800.

After months of looking that's where I'm at.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I already changed to brembo fluid.
As for ducts a kit would be great but doing something so complex as that DIY is a challenge that would end up costing more than a complete brembo bbk.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
People were retrofitting the TLX rotors I think, but they are not that much of an upgrade even though they will do better than stock. That is an option I got to look into.

And I think people were using either the 350 or 370z rotor that’s what the Wunderlast kit uses.

As for the Genesis coupe r-spec I would think that they would need mounting hardware. And has been the issue, if I could just find the mounting bracket I could just buy some used brembo calipers and it would save me a lot of money.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys a lot.
It does seem like the gen coupes brembo are a direct bolt on with the Nissan rouge 3rd row seating rotors.
So that leaves me with either 324mm x 30mm Acura kit or 320mm x 28mm genesis kit.

But then the rear is stock. Tell me if I’m wrong but that will not only look ugly with 18 inch wheels but will also mess up the brake bias.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I remember reading an article on a 9th gen civic that was raced and they left the rear stock. IDK maybe it’s just the looks, but I don’t think that justifies spending $1200 on the wilwood kit for the rear.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I’ll look into the brake fluid you mentioned it’s about $20 more expensive than the brembo fluid I put in. I have to get better lines either way but I doubt they’ll do anything but give a better feel in the pedal rather than control the brake temps. I did a quick google search on brake ducts and it looks like it is not as difficult to do as I made it out to be. But, anyways guys thank you so much you gave me a lot to think about. I’ll post in the near future what I ended going with.
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Hi, just wanted to give an update with what I ended up going with.

I decided to go with the Acura RL swap. The calipers were not as pricey as the genesis Brembo. I at first took a look at Chinese replica calipers and the only reason I considered them was because they were new and cost the same as a pair of used OEMs and I wouldn't need to clean them, I could paint them out of the box. But in the end I decided I valued my life and went with some used OEMs from Ebay.

Grinded off the Acura logo and cleaned them up from all the caked up brake dust and painted them red. I went the spray paint route; got some ERA 2k paint, and the finish was crazy good. The paint could be sprayed on thick without drips which gave it a nice finish and filled in any imperfections would really recommend. It being a $60 can was the only downside, but I guess you get what you pay for.

For the rotors I went with EBC ulitmax rotors for the 350Z track edition. The rotors have a grey coating that of course comes off on the friction part but stays on the rest of the rotor including the slots, this means the rotor does not rust anywhere except the friction part.

To fit these two things together I used the Fastbrakes kit which was great and included everything you needed. The brackets themselves are cnc aluminum, it also comes with grade 8 hardware, the banjo bolts to fit civic brake lines to RL calipers, and the ring spacers for the rotor to fit flush on the hub. Overall the kit was great everything fit nice and flush (no fab work needed) and the price is ok too.

For the other smaller stuff I went with yellow stuff EBC pads (I don't care about brake dust; my wheels are the color of brake dust). For the lines I went with stoptech's stainless steel lines for the front and back. I also used castrol SRF brake fluid due to everyone's recommendation here and everywhere else.

Overall driving it is at least 4 times better. When I went out to do the break in, I did 30-0 three times then 60-0 three times then 100-0 three times. On stock brakes the second time you did the 100-0 the brakes you could feel would start to give up and would take twice the distance to brake. On this setup a while after the break-in I went out to test how much times it would take 100-0 before it starts to fade and after the fifth consistent stop I gave up. Just fyi I am running 255 Daytona 500s for my tires. Overall I would consider this totally worth it for a sub $1000 upgrade and worth it even more because I am planning on turbocharging this car down the road.
 
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