[civicsareslow]

Hi, just wanted to give an update with what I ended up going with.

I decided to go with the Acura RL swap. The calipers were not as pricey as the genesis Brembo. I at first took a look at Chinese replica calipers and the only reason I considered them was because they were new and cost the same as a pair of used OEMs and I wouldn't need to clean them, I could paint them out of the box. But in the end I decided I valued my life and went with some used OEMs from Ebay.

Grinded off the Acura logo and cleaned them up from all the caked up brake dust and painted them red. I went the spray paint route; got some ERA 2k paint, and the finish was crazy good. The paint could be sprayed on thick without drips which gave it a nice finish and filled in any imperfections would really recommend. It being a $60 can was the only downside, but I guess you get what you pay for.

For the rotors I went with EBC ulitmax rotors for the 350Z track edition. The rotors have a grey coating that of course comes off on the friction part but stays on the rest of the rotor including the slots, this means the rotor does not rust anywhere except the friction part.

To fit these two things together I used the Fastbrakes kit which was great and included everything you needed. The brackets themselves are cnc aluminum, it also comes with grade 8 hardware, the banjo bolts to fit civic brake lines to RL calipers, and the ring spacers for the rotor to fit flush on the hub. Overall the kit was great everything fit nice and flush (no fab work needed) and the price is ok too.

For the other smaller stuff I went with yellow stuff EBC pads (I don't care about brake dust; my wheels are the color of brake dust). For the lines I went with stoptech's stainless steel lines for the front and back. I also used castrol SRF brake fluid due to everyone's recommendation here and everywhere else.

Overall driving it is at least 4 times better. When I went out to do the break in, I did 30-0 three times then 60-0 three times then 100-0 three times. On stock brakes the second time you did the 100-0 the brakes you could feel would start to give up and would take twice the distance to brake. On this setup a while after the break-in I went out to test how much times it would take 100-0 before it starts to fade and after the fifth consistent stop I gave up. Just fyi I am running 255 Daytona 500s for my tires. Overall I would consider this totally worth it for a sub $1000 upgrade and worth it even more because I am planning on turbocharging this car down the road.

 

[jn2k108]

Let’s see some pics

 

[civicsareslow]

IMG_1776.jpeg

• civicsareslow
• May 8, 2024

 

[TenZen]

I forogot titanium brake shims too

I didn't even know that was a thing

 

[jn2k108]

I use that on track to prevent heat getting into the caliper and boil the fluid on the stock calipers. The combination of that and Castrol srf fluid gets me through every 20 min session without fade

 

[EffBee6fromthe209]

But it is a race car lol.

That's what I tell my 97 ej8 ,and then it reminds me how slow it is and why I drive it ..........but the lack of ABS sure makes it feel like a race car even if it's revving to the moon and still only going 45 😂

 

[EffBee6fromthe209]

My ‘15 Si is my daily driver (110K+ mi) that has some track days at Sonoma and Thunderhill. It’s also gone to Tahoe and back countless times on highways 80 and 50 in California which have incline and winding roads. I run stock brakes (Akebonos purchased from the stealership), $25 Wagner blank rotors, Castro React SRF, and Pirelli Cinturato A/S off the track. On a highway, I have not experienced brake fade when reducing speeds from 100+mph to 50mph or less (had my fair share of emergency braking), but there’s also no reason why you should be hard braking on the highway, let alone doing so on a daily basis.

Even on the track, I’m not experiencing brake fade on downhill programs after 5-6 laps in a 20min period and cooking corners at 50-60MPH after decelerating from 90+. TBF, it sounds like your tires aren’t doing the work, the brake calipers need to be serviced, or you should sign up for an HPDE class.

Yes,but have you driven Patterson pass......... It'll pucker the chicken donut real quick for those that have never been
😂

 

[visi_d]

Can you share a link to the kit you used. Thank you for the write up.

 

[civicsareslow]

FB Civic with Acura RL caliper adapter kit

Fastbrakes specializes in Custom Performance Brake Kits using Wilwood, AP Racing and Alcon calipers, performance pads, rotors & calipers, brake upgrades by Fastbrakes, StopTech, Wilwood, Brembo & Ksport. Monthly specials, secure checkout.

www.fastbrakes.com

 

[visi_d]

What year specific pads did you go with

 

[civicsareslow]

I don’t remember what the year range, but if you just go with 2005 Acura RL you should be good.

 

[ELPEPE93]

IMG_1776.jpeg

• civicsareslow
• May 8, 2024

Are the rotors the size of the front or rear of the 350z?

 

[ELPEPE93]

Hey Guys,

Before you start going off on why I don't need a BBK just listen to my situation. Yes my car power-wise is completely stock and yes I don't track my car but half of my daily commute (1 hour one-way) is curvy backroads. So my dilemma is that I get severe brake fade if I am pushing the car above 80% for more than a mile. 2 or 3 hard decels from at least 80mph and the brakes start to fade. I was able to fix this with better pads (make a lot of f**king dust). With better pads it pushed it up to 4 or 5 hard decels than brake fade becomes apparent, but after 5 mins of hard driving I can start to feel it very noticeably in the pedal to the point that I have to move the pedal twice as far compared to adequately warmed brakes. After 10 mins it is no longer safe to drive the car, where I'll push the pedal all the way to even stop normally. FYI I change my front pads at least every 2-3 months and my rears every year.

So, my biggest issue with the stock setup isn't the feel or the stopping power rather it is the brake fade. The only thing that I have not done is change the rotors, which I think wouldn't move the needle much.

The first option I looked at was Ceika brakes. About $3,800 for fronts and rears. 330mm F/ 286 R.

The second I am leaning more towards is getting Wunderladen's Front EBC BBK for the tenth gen civic which they say will fit only mod is I need brake lines for the 9th gen. And for the rear just the single piston Wilwoods. Total about $2800.

After months of looking that's where I'm at.

We're the rotors you used the size of the front or rear rotors of the 350z?