Not much. Being generous, 2-5.

 

Seems like a troll, someone with the same setup with a proper dyno tune made 199 to the wheels.

 

Whatever you say.

 

Ok grumpy

 

Ok, clown.

Know what? Show me that build. Cause I had Acuity CAI+RV6 Catted DP+Full Race Exhaust and got 202-204.

 

here’s the link 197. Then your tuner was probably crap.

 

Tuner is crap? Lmao, ok you are a clown. It's pretty average gains for all that, but what do I know.

 

So you’re admitting it’s not 2-5😂 thanks

 

....wasn't talking about short ram+exhaust....

 

you're installing a hot air intake with an exhaust lol. Dyno numbers can be all over the place considering the actual dyno, conditions of the dyno, etc.
Post your sheet when you get it done

 

People get basemap tunes stock and say the difference is night and day. So hopefully a proper dyno tune with just intake exhaust will be good. I’ll post the sheet.

 

you should get a dyno pre tune and parts install, and then do one after. It's the only way you'll know how much power you gained. I'm going to guess you go from the 185-187WHP to 195WHP.

I'm sure the car will feel more lively since you'll be getting rid of the rev hang, but you'd have to do more to get more power.

 

you should get a dyno pre tune and parts install, and then do one after. It's the only way you'll know how much power you gained. I'm going to guess you go from the 185-187WHP to 195WHP.

I'm sure the car will feel more lively since you'll be getting rid of the rev hang, but you'd have to do more to get more power.

Yes I plan on doing a pre tune dyno and after tune. I’m hoping I’m upper 190’s. I feel like that would be a big difference for me since I’ve had this setup without a tune for 3 years now. Just happy I’m finally getting it properly tuned.

 

Even without any mods and a tune, that car is much more responsive and is more efficient

 

Super stoked to get her on the Dyno. Maybe I’ll get the urge to do the battery relocation and get a proper cold air.

 

It's okay to disagree but please keep the convo civil.

 

The basemap is definitely night and day on the stock tune. There are way more knocks lol. Lifting off the gas, the car jerks a lot lol

 

Oof I might just wait to get it dyno tuned then. I don’t want knocks or any of that😂

 

Quick question, not too familiar with dynapack, is that a hub dyno or wheel to floor? And is that the mustang dyno or one wheel dyno

hub dynos will read crank (from what I know) which isn’t like the wheel calculations one.

 

It was a job dyno, it was whp. Because it was a hub dyno the numbers are a bit higher than they probably are tbh. I’m still very happy and the car feels absolutely amazing compared to stock.

 

lol! Was there a before and after showing the gains of the tune?

 

Yes baseline run was 184, final run after time was 209.

 

Decent gains!

 

Car feels really good! Would a throttle body be worth it and a re tune? Even rbc?

 

Not at all. You’ll lose the bottom and mid but gain at the top. For the price, it’s not worth the headache

 

Hmm okay, good to know. Trying to see what else besides a downpipe I could do for now. I also made a makeshift air duct on my fog light. I closed up the gaps you see too.

 

You’ll achieve more than 2-5whp for sure but like Eric said the dyno numbers and performance will likely look a bit different once you hit the street esp if it‘s a warmer climate where you live and also the octane of gas available makes a huge difference too.
Is you’re N1 2.75” or 3” ?
As for short rams, the K&N is probably the best of the bunch
I’m going to guess you put down 193whp 🥸 — w DP about 200whp — w better intake about 205whp

 

I believe the exhaust is 3”. My IAT is a bit high, but that’s expected with a short ram. I also have some unleaded VP octane booster since I’m in Cali the highest we have is 91. My knock control is at a steady 2%-10%.

 

Oh yikes, well yea you might be more into the high 180’s or barely crack 190whp with that Cali gas 😝
Octane booster will help…

 

Our cars are pretty buns NA, it took me a while to finally accept that if you want power, you’ll need to boost the car. Yea it takes some money to do but it beats buying a whole new car or financing one paying a monthly. I personally financed my supercharger kit through affirm, highly recommend.
Rbc is not what people make it out to be, true cold air intake and downpipe are the only two bolt ons that make any sense for NA power.
Throttle bodies are essentially useless speaking on a $ to hp logic, cuz the gains would probably be minimal like 1-3hp if that, plus the notorious weird idle our cars get from switching TB’s.

 

All of that to say, use the search bar my friend, cuz people have explained just about every bolt on/upgrade for these cars in some thread years/months/weeks ago, and when you ask it’s okay cuz I’ll repeat myself but a lot of other people won’t, they’ll get annoyed and possibly ignore you LOL.

 

T

Thats okay if other people don’t want to repeat themselves they should leave the forum if they want to be a sour puss. That’s what a forum is literally for😂 I get ignored all the time in here, I make posts for the select few people that’ll help me with questions I have. I appreciate you responding too

 

Couldn’t agree more…
Yea the rbc is trash, I really don’t understand why people stand on that so firmly — like yes you are going to pickup a few hp numbers but that’s all they are are numbers, the gains’ are only made at the very top of the revband and whatever hp you do pickup you will lose double that in tq which is literally the entire point of a K24 lol
Good intake/ DP / Tune if you’re just looking to do something mild
Unless you’re going FULL bolt on then the intake manifold and tb and exhaust are pointless

 

Exactly, if i wanted crappy torque i would’ve gotten an 8th gen si. I see their dyno sheets and it’s 230whp and 150-160 torque😂, no daily “useable” power/torque, just top end revs w crappy acceleration. I love them don’t get me wrong, but I don’t want to be the guy revving to 6000+ at 7 in the morning just to keep up with mom crossover suv’s on the road at a red light. It’s more noise than go power which is pretty annoying. NA vs NA I’m taking a 9th gen any day, even with our half vtec lol.

 

The rbc is just an alternative for the skunk2 manifold. It’s cheaper and more widely available. People want a metal intake manifold, then rbc or skunk2.

 

Goin IN on em’ !! 😆

If I were going the Full on Donkey Kong route I would do the Skunk2 manifold, it makes more midrange type power which would be dope - I don’t care what anybody says, 240whp in this car would be hecka fun and quick, quick enough for me at my old age lol… price difference or not you got to pay to play

 

For track purposes I rather use our plastic manifold. Heat dissipates better and you can churn more laps compared to a metal intake manifold

 

100% and despite what others may say it is much more efficient and works very well with our engines - that tq lag is a real thing, and I ain’t looking to go back to the Bseries days lol, these cars are so pleasurable to drive ‘normally’ - like if you have owned other earlier Honda’s in the past and then you get in a 9th gen Si it’s two totally different worlds, I love it.
Like I’ve said in the past I don’t even beat on my car that much, prob hit vtec 20 times 🤫 since I’ve even owned it lol which is partly sad but also a true testament to how much fun they are to drive just running around town @ 4-5,000 rpm…