Thanks for posting your steps. I"ll be doing a drain and fill on my 2013 Si next oil change as well. Are the crush washers the same size as the oil drain plug crush washer?

 

Just did mine yesterday for the first time using Honda MTF. The drain plug washer is the same as the oil drain, but the fill plug has a much larger washer (I just re-used mine).

The fill plug is a little difficult to access. I tried going through the side with an extension, but the socket didn't sit flush and I didn't want to round the bolt head. I ended up using a 17mm combination wrench and used the double-wrench method to get more leverage. I did fill it through the side by removing the wheel, but that took longer than I would've liked. I don't know if I can access it by removing the intake box, but I might look into that next time.

Either way I can definitely notice a difference with the fresh fluid in there. It was already shifting smooth, but I'm sure it slowly became notchier over time that I just adjusted to. 1st to 2nd I immediately could tell was smoother, and it just seems to glide from gear to gear.

One thing I didn't do was siphon this time, but I will use a siphon to get as much old oil out as possible before refilling next time around. I have two bottles of Amsoil MTF that I WAS going to put in, but changed my mind on after seeing some pretty informative thread on it somewhere on 9thgen.

 

Do you know if the plugs are in the same location on 2013 LX standard model?

 

no pics? geeze -_-

 

LOL tough crowd!


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Its crazy people change their tranny fluid every other oil change

 

I know! It seems crazy, but I've seen at least one other thread on tranny oil suggesting that it was breaking down by 10k miles. That's so short! But I love my shifter feel, so I guess it's worth doing. I'll prolly just stick with Honda tranny oil when I get around to it.

 

Is this really needed every 8-9k miles? I have 30K on mine and haven't done it.


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Is this really needed every 8-9k miles? I have 30K on mine and haven't done it.


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I change mine out about every 15K miles (twice so far on my 2012 Si), and the tranny shifts much smoother after the fluid change. I wouldn't go much more than 30K miles between oil changes IMO.

 

Once a year should be fine(12-15k miles).

 

I drive 45k miles a year lol

 

I'll probably do 15k. So every 3 oil changes for me.

 

Mine still looked great at 92k and there was no noticeable difference in the way it was shifting at all. Since Honda programs the mm I think it will be hard to blame owners this time for failing to change at the required intervals. This transmission already behaves better than the 8th gen did for sure.

I run so many miles that if I did change tranny fluid every 9,000 miles I would go broke way before suffering a failure of components! I do not suggest everyone waits as long as I do but it sure proves that it can be done. Changing fluid will never be a bad idea as often as your wallet allows. At a minimum change it when called for on the maintenance minder.

 

I wouldn't have done it for the exception of my 8th. I wanted to get that intial one in and take pics for Honda so they don't have anything on me. Pics, receipts, the local service manager's face and date like I have a for sale item, lol

I do 40k changes and feel it is a waste of money.Just don't want to argue on my 9th if it ever becomes an issue.

Honda transmissions are crappy little units in my opinion. Compare these with say a Borg Warner T-56 and IMHO it just isn't up to the task. Car built around a transmission.

 

especially if boosted or even with serious bolt ons. I understand your precautions after battling with the last gen.

 

I changed my MTF last week for the first time at 25K. Used Honda MTF. I may order 3 QTs next time just to have extra in case I spill some. New funnel and valve = mess. I can tell a difference much smoother shifting


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I did the drain/fill yesterday with the help of my father. Took some pics to help others that are interested in doing this themselves. I will also provide torque specs found on a College Hills Honda PDF.

Here is the pic of the tools that I used. The two ratchet extensions I used together allowed me to use my massive torque wrench inside the wheel well (fill bolt). Also seen are the two crush washers. The larger is the fill bolt crush washer, the smaller is the drain bolt crush washer (the same as the engine oil pan drain bolt crush washer). The small 3/8 ratchet actually hooks right up to the drain bolt itself (square hole).

Here is a pic from the wheel well of the transmission case and drain and fill bolts. Drain bolt on the bottom (square hole), and fill bolt on top (large ratchet 17MM). The fill bolt has been removed already in the pic.

Here you can see the level of fluid if you look closely(after filled with the car leveled).

And this was my method for filling. Simple funnel and tubing. It was very simple, so long as you have someone pour, while you hold the tube in the fill hole and watch for dribbling out to know when enough fluid has been added. For me it took nearly exactly 2 quarts. Torque specs include 1) fill bolt: 32 lb/ft. 2) Drain bolt: 29 lb/ft (though I did 30 as our manual suggests 30). 3) Lug nuts for getting the wheel back on correctly: 80 lb/ft. Hope this is useful!!

 

Thanks for the write-up. I just got done doing this. Unfortunately I had to put the fill-plug back in without a crush washer, because I fumbled the washer under the car and it totally vanished. Is there any chance I'll be alright without a crush washer, or do I need to buy some asap?

 

Buy one. It's cheap insurance.

 

Eh can anyone tell me what size washer that is?

 

I would suggest getting from the stealership. It was only $0.45. Look at the pic I posted. It's larger than the drain bolt, of course. Don't let the parts dept. give you the wrong one!

 

Thanks, yeah I was just hoping someone had the part number so I could buy a bag online since I'm rarely ever at the dealer. Never did find the one I dropped. Oddest thing, it's gotta be rattling around in the frame somewhere.

 

Haha... That's a nightmare for me. Losing a bolt or washer in the engine bay..... Uggggghhh.

I haven't noticed smoother shifts with the new fluid in there yet. I still feel better having changed it though, at 25,000 mi.

 

I noticed it right away, but was also closer to 40k when it was done. I'll def do it sooner for the second change.

 

Just got back from my local dealer. Bought a bag of manual transmission fill plug crush washers. Part number is 94109-20000

 

My 06 Accord I could tell too. Bothered the hell out of me. Talked to major additive company about. Should have done some analysis. Most likely a loss in viscosity. Honda did a big test program on it. I of course volunteered by they wanted paddle shift 5 spd ATs. Only Acura had those back then.

 

There is a fill hole on top of the tranny (under the stock airbox) too correct? You could in theory drain the fluid, takeoff the side fill plug, and also take the top one off and fill from there until the fluid drops out of the side fill hole. This could be much easier than taking the wheel off, especially for those who have aftermarket intakes.

 

IDK and pissed. I should hear from my oil company friends but it is almost Xmas. Somebody makes this stuff for them. I always told folks about OEM branded fluids...would you buy a piston or cam etc...from a gas station? No. I'll buy my oils from top tier oil companies. I've seen first hand what most oils will do.

 

ScootR, I have to ask...Short story...

My former boss working logistics did a material handling system for an oil packaging system. They filled quarts and jugs for the masses. He said they produce/import/whatever, huge vats of oil and then when production starts, the various plastic jugs flow thru to get filled. Name brands, then generics, then short runs of gas station specific jugs. He said they also ran the same oil as they were running various weights of oil. I asked him and he laughed that it was a $$ vs. sub-weights that it did not pay to have umpteem different weights when each was SAE certified to cover the adjacent weight.

He likened it to the Michigan gas pipeline which is run by Wolverine and all goes to the same distilleries where the most they can do is additives. The same tanker fills up and supplies all our local hillbilly gas stations since it would be logistically impossible for Sunoco to have a truck deliver to each station when they can hit them all. Now I suppose these tankers have multiple chambers within them but limited in grades.

He used whatever oil was available at cheapest and laughed at all the cost differences.

Curious if you have any input. I have changed my 8th Gen fluid many times over 306k and tried a few different ones. I never felt any differences. A new oil change be it trans or engine always feels smoother for a while. Possibly placebo effect.

Sythetic oil/Honda MTF guy for warranty.

 

Like duh, read the book. 0W or 5W20 API engine oil as a alternate. So Honda MTF is a specially formulated engine oil. More ZDP based on samples shown here. Current car oils are 800 ppm Phos. Provides more wear protection. I plan to buy some and run full analysis.

 

The phos limit to protect catcon came long before XW20s. US wanted 600 max. Honda, Toyota and many others said NFW. Burn less fuel make less polution. Not like the had 500+ engines! Gearbox holds only 2 quarts! I think it has been engine oil since day one. MTF came when phos dropped from 1400 typical to 800. HD diesels drop to 1200 as they said NFW. ZDP main anti wear and anti oxidant.

 

3 of them?