[RedRocket]

Thanks for the write-up. I just got done doing this. Unfortunately I had to put the fill-plug back in without a crush washer, because I fumbled the washer under the car and it totally vanished. Is there any chance I'll be alright without a crush washer, or do I need to buy some asap?

 

[MenacE]

Buy one. It's cheap insurance.

 

[RedRocket]

Eh can anyone tell me what size washer that is?

 

[Civi9]

I would suggest getting from the stealership. It was only $0.45. Look at the pic I posted. It's larger than the drain bolt, of course. Don't let the parts dept. give you the wrong one!

 

[RedRocket]

I would suggest getting from the stealership. It was only $0.45. Look at the pic I posted. It's larger than the drain bolt, of course. Don't let the parts dept. give you the wrong one!

Thanks, yeah I was just hoping someone had the part number so I could buy a bag online since I'm rarely ever at the dealer. Never did find the one I dropped. Oddest thing, it's gotta be rattling around in the frame somewhere.

 

[Civi9]

Haha... That's a nightmare for me. Losing a bolt or washer in the engine bay..... Uggggghhh.

I haven't noticed smoother shifts with the new fluid in there yet. I still feel better having changed it though, at 25,000 mi.

 

[jtsi2012]

Haha... That's a nightmare for me. Losing a bolt or washer in the engine bay..... Uggggghhh.

I haven't noticed smoother shifts with the new fluid in there yet. I still feel better having changed it though, at 25,000 mi.

I noticed it right away, but was also closer to 40k when it was done. I'll def do it sooner for the second change.

 

[RedRocket]

Just got back from my local dealer. Bought a bag of manual transmission fill plug crush washers. Part number is 94109-20000

 

[ScootR]

My 06 Accord I could tell too. Bothered the hell out of me. Talked to major additive company about. Should have done some analysis. Most likely a loss in viscosity. Honda did a big test program on it. I of course volunteered by they wanted paddle shift 5 spd ATs. Only Acura had those back then.

 

[Hella JDM]

There is a fill hole on top of the tranny (under the stock airbox) too correct? You could in theory drain the fluid, takeoff the side fill plug, and also take the top one off and fill from there until the fluid drops out of the side fill hole. This could be much easier than taking the wheel off, especially for those who have aftermarket intakes.

 

[ScootR]

IDK and pissed. I should hear from my oil company friends but it is almost Xmas. Somebody makes this stuff for them. I always told folks about OEM branded fluids...would you buy a piston or cam etc...from a gas station? No. I'll buy my oils from top tier oil companies. I've seen first hand what most oils will do.

 

[ScootR]

Like duh, read the book. 0W or 5W20 API engine oil as a alternate. So Honda MTF is a specially formulated engine oil. More ZDP based on samples shown here. Current car oils are 800 ppm Phos. Provides more wear protection. I plan to buy some and run full analysis.

 

[ScootR]

The phos limit to protect catcon came long before XW20s. US wanted 600 max. Honda, Toyota and many others said NFW. Burn less fuel make less polution. Not like the had 500+ engines! Gearbox holds only 2 quarts! I think it has been engine oil since day one. MTF came when phos dropped from 1400 typical to 800. HD diesels drop to 1200 as they said NFW. ZDP main anti wear and anti oxidant.

 

[ScootR]

3 of them?

 

[ScootR]

Armed and dangerous! Oil analysis early Jan. It's XW20 API certified high phos ENGINE oil.

 

[ScootR]

When I hit 1000 post I'm no longer a pimp?

 

[GHOSTMONKY]

When I hit 1000 post I'm no longer a pimp?

1 more to go Scoot!!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[79537]

I thought the MTF from Honda had some additive in it for the LSD int he Si's.

QUOTE=ScootR;2175986]Like duh, read the book. 0W or 5W20 API engine oil as a alternate. So Honda MTF is a specially formulated engine oil. More ZDP based on samples shown here. Current car oils are 800 ppm Phos. Provides more wear protection. I plan to buy some and run full analysis.[/QUOTE]

 

[Erkon]

I just did this last night. First off I want to say there is no reason to remove your LF tire or your fender liner. There is a drain plug on bottom and a fill plug on top. I did not touch my check plug. When doing a drain and fill on the transmission, it calls for 2 qts. Drain the fluid out and add your two quarts at the fill plug and be done. People that are trying to fill from the check plug are crazy. There's a reason it's a PITA to fill through the check plug, because it's a check plug NOT a fill plug. Attached is the picture of the fill plug. Again, drain all the fluid out and pour your two quarts in through the fill plug. No need to waste time checking the level. The check plug is for checking the fluid later or getting a sample to see how the fluid looks. Honda and Alldata state 2 qts on drain and fill. It took me about 15 min from start to finish. The fill plug is a 17 mm. It was also very easy for me because I did not have to remove anything to get to my fill plug (because of my aftermarket intake). One picture is of the plug in and one is with the plug out.

 

[Erkon]

I would also like to add that my car has 20,000 miles on it. It has been driven moderately hard its whole life. The fluid looked pretty good coming out, maybe a little dark, and I did NOT notice any change in my shifting after this.