[robzapp]

Also, doing a hard reset with the battery works. Disconnect both terminals, bring them together for about 5-15 min. Replace the connections and it should come back up. Went to the dealership yesterday and that's what they did. Hope this helps

 

[jaybepr]

Hi, thanks for the help. My 2015 Si with 845 miles just had this problem today, no info at all from the i-MID. Like stated on this thread I remove the fuse #29 put it back and it all went back to normal. I was getting ready to visit the Honda dealer on Monday, but my question is why a brand new Si with 845 miles ( 3 weeks old ) had this problem?? Thanks again for the HELP.
.

 

[karmatwo]

oh my oh my, so glad I found this forum and thread. I have been dealing with stereo issue for 6 months(of course, after warranty is gone) all my stock stereo dash lights gone, controls in steering wheel gone. Honda will gladly take $150 to start to look at it, $500 to replace stock radio(like I would). Not worth it, so I lived with it. Then today, odometer gone. Went to dealer, and they want $50 to do software upgrade(what? to get a basic stock necessity???) THEN, I found this thread. I replaced #29 fuse BOOM, all fixed-stereo controls, lights, odometer. Take that Honda!!!!!

 

[Aluisio Pires]

Hi, I changed the battery of my Civic 2012 LXL and I-mid stop to show range, back camera and etc, so I remove the fuse 29, turn the car in on without working the engine, the imid appear all black and the radio didn´t work. Next I turned off and put back the fuse 29 in his place. I turned on the car again and all infortmation and language came back. It seams like a reset. Thanks for all help.

 

[lsturm777]

My 2012 Honda civic maintenance computer stopped working. No light on the display.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Gciv2012]

Just had this problem yesterday. No mileage analysis display or speedometer/odometer. Read this forum and checked #29 fuse and it was good. Pulling the negative battery cable and touching it to the positive cable for few seconds fixed everything. On another note, I've always had the issue of the steering wheel radio controls stop working once every blue moon but that always seem to correct itself overnight without any intervention.

 

[jayhfromohio]

My 2012 Honda Civic stopped showing the MPG and Range and Odometer reading during the extremely cold weather in Ohio (not sure if there's any cause and effect related to the weather). I took the car to the Honda dealership and they tried to see what was causing the problem. They told me I need a new IMID console which would cost about $700.. Resetting the system didn't work. Does anyone have advice for me about this repair or what I might try on my own?

 

[jasonboy7]

My 2012 civic LX had the same no odometer/trip/fuel-mileage issue, so after reading a suggestion online somewhere to try disconnecting the battery, I did so. Then reconnected it 45 mins later, and hallelujah, these missing 3 things had returned. However, it stills seem to wanna start a little hesitantly if I've been running the AC and doing only short drives. AAA tested it and said battery's fine though the alternator's reading indicates the battery is dead or depleted (forget which). I'll try checking all fuses before trying anything else.

 

[zalan.reilly]

Hey everyone,

I'm new to this forum and registered just to see if anyone knows what's up with my Civic... as the title says, my civic's i-MID display reverse image search email checker port checker won't show average fuel economy, range, and total miles. On top of that, when I change the brightness of the dash, the meter that would normally come up on the i-MID has disappeared! And the small little animation that appears when turning ECON on and off is... gone. It just shows an icon on the dash now. I've googled, I've searched this forum, I've asked other 9th gen civic owners and nobody knows how to fix it. I just want to make sure that I've exhausted all my options before having to drag the car to the dealership.

Help please I'm really annoyed. Thanks guys!

I have an Si by the way. Car has 7k miles on it. Taking it to the dealer on monday. So lame.

 

[Lexi2001]

it is a blown fuse, fuse no. 29

just replace with a new 10 amp and bam
good as new =]

Worked like a charm!! Thank you 🙂

 

[DrewMonroe]

I replaced #29 with a 10 amp (the extra 10 amp fuse that was already contained in the lid of the fuse box) and it worked. Most confusing part for me was to determine which way the fuse map (on the interior of the lid) corresponded with the actual fuses. I initially had it backwards/reverse and pulled the wrong 10 amp (which appeared to be fine). But once I realized it was a different 10 amp (in spot #29) at the other end... that existing fuse did appear to be blown... I replaced and it worked. This also restored my FOB (keyless entry) - both my info screen (with clock/radio stations/cardinal directions) and FOB/keyless had gone out right after I had an auto repair place replace my battery. Can't be coincidence.... Thanks for this info!

 

[NightFlyer]

I'm glad that it seems like several people have solved the problem with that fuse, but I'm wondering why the fuse would be blowing in the first place, unless someone is drawing power for an aftermarket accessory from the same circuit and overloading it.

As for AAA saying that the alternator reading indicates a dead battery in post number 29 (and I realize that post is about a year and a half old), I'm wondering if that had to do with the ELD. With the ELD, the car can be running, but the electrical system may only show about 12 volts (instead of the expected 13.8-14 volts) under low-load conditions, and that can make it appear that there is something wrong with the battery or alternator if you're not aware of the ELD and how it works.

 

[TheKamel]

So it's battery problem.

I checked fuse #29 and it was good but I replaced it anyways. My iMid went to working again without issues.

 

[erickxrosay24]

it is a blown fuse, fuse no. 29

just replace with a new 10 amp and bam
good as new =]

Thank you so much, very grateful for this forum, because it helped me avoid buying a new i-mid for no reason, which it’s expensive asf for no reason.
Whoever yall are in this forum, god bless yall, my i-mid works again after changing out fuse 29 in the engine bay fuse box. Weird cuz my multimeter said the fuse was fine, so I never even thought to pull it out, thank god for you guys, my screen and buttons are back.

 

[martinoren88]

Try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, might fix that for ya

Speed Test​

 

[edwardo33]

Try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, might fix that for ya