which part and where is it?

 

pictures please! maybe a DIY?

 

yes, much appreciated.

 

yay for more sound?

 

haha hey at least it sounds mean! right? :wink:

 

Here's mine

 

Just remove all the piping from behind the battery all the way into the driver's side fender. If you turn your front tires all the way left you can remove just the forward section of the driver's side splash guard and access the tubing. The final section re enters the engine bay and goes upward between the inside fender and the battery, topped by a triangular black plastic piece. A good CAI would really have to go from the throttle body to down low somewhere into cooler air with a K&N type cone filter mounted on the end. My homemade one in the pic above (until a real one comes out) draws air from just above the radiator; at speed that's high pressure air too.

 

On the 2012 si, do you have to cut it or you can just remove that part by remove bolts?

 

just remove 2 bolts on the main resonator 1 bolt of the fender breather and various clips !

 

doing this.....is a hp increase possible or is it just sound only?

 

It's really easy to do the resonator delete. It increases throttle response due to less air restrictions. It may feel like hp gain but there isn't really any.

 

cool beans... wwasnt for sure:cucumber[1]:

 

Im not sure to understand how to do it.. Is it possible fo you to put some pictures step by step?

 

I removed the resonator from the intake tubing, it sounds deeper and also better throttle response. I think I might remove the rest of the tubing tomorrow but leave only the tube that goes down from the airbox.

FB2 squad #10

 

How to remove intake resonator

Hey guys do anyone know how to remove the intake resonator step by step please pix would also be greatly appreciated.. Thanx in advance!


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ask and ye shall recieve

http://www.9thgencivic.com/forum/9th-gen-civic-general-chat/3492-intake-resonator-delete.html

Should take you maybe 5-15 mins pending how handy you are!

 

I have a DIY but I still cant post it because I've already exceeded picture upload amount a long time ago to upload. Best I can do is reference a pic from another site for you.

 

Thanks for the reference, so the part #10 can be separated from the resonator and its tubing. maybe that's the reason I couldn't get the tubing out, I tried to remove it a one piece:banghead:

FB2 squad #10

 

take off drivers side wheel and pull back the wheel well liner to get at it. Then there are 3 or 4 10mm bolts. 2 or 3 of them you will have to get from the wheel well and 2 side by side just under the battery. I took out all the pipeing right up to to stock air box and just put a cone filter on it. I will go and get a pic of it now.

 

View attachment 7055 View attachment 7056 View attachment 7057
take off drivers side wheel and pull back the wheel well liner to get at it. Then there are 3 or 4 10mm bolts. 2 or 3 of them you will have to get from the wheel well and the other 1 is just under the battery. I took out all the pipeing right up to to stock air box and just put a cone filter on it. I will go and get a pic of it now.

Not the same engine and setup... he has a LX

 

Sweet looking get up! BY the way, is that a custom short ram?

 

Did you keep the original filter in the box?

I left the tube that goes downward on mine. It picks up cooler air down low.

 

@ADExternal - Didn't realize he had the LX.


@Kapoee09 - Yeah I guess you can call it a custom short ram intake.


@hpengineprep - I took out the cotten from the stock filter and put the frame of the filter in because the air box won't seal up right without one in. I tried without it and it almost seemed like there was a miss-fire.

 

That looks dope!
I have a r18 and I'm wondering also

FB2 squad #17

 

I took some pictures of the removed intake resonator for those who want to check it out. Its a pretty restrictive setup. The whole system has a lot of sharp bends, which decreases airflow. It aslo has what is called a hydrocarbon adsorber which draws in any raw gas that may have evaporated in the intake manifold and is still there when the engine is shut down. There is a sort of snorkel trumpet thing which is supposed to pipe engine music into the cabin. I think it sounds better when it is off.

I left parts 8,9, and 10 on mine. It draws in air right next to the front wheel inside the engine compartment. I think this is better than drawing it in higher because it is not behind the radiator. The stock filter should not be causing a restriction. I wish I had the time to dyno the stock system and the system in it's current configuration. I bet it will be close to what is available on the market. It would be nice if someone made a blow molded snorkel than would pick up cold air from under the car, out of the way of the radiator and anything else that is hot. It would be cheap too since it would be a single piece. It would have the advantage that it would still use the stock airbox and filter. You wouldn't have to worry about setting codes due to fuel trim numbers being out of spec.

 

This is the reason I don't like short ram intakes. I think they can sound really good, and they make good power on the dyno when the hood is up. They even make good power when you are moving on the freeway. The thing that happens around town though is when you are sitting at a stop light idling, and the cooling fan is running, and the engine is heat soaking, the intake air temps are rising. When you start moving again, the air flow cools down a bit pretty quick. What most people don't realize is that when you are sitting idling and the air temps are rising, the computer is richening up the mixture and retarding the timing. This is prevent the engine from getting hot and helps reduce oxides of nitrogen. When the computer starts seeing air temps going back down, it does not lean out the mixture or advance the timing immediately, it can take a minute of so. You could eliminate this algorithm if you could reverse engineer the firmware but few people are able to this. At Dinan Engineering we were able to eliminate this rich mixture/retarded timing in race Mini's we tuned. What would happen is when there was a yellow flag and everyone was slowed, the timing would get retarded and the fuel mixture would richen. Ours did not do that so when the race started up again, our cars were able to pull on the other ones because they had considerably more power, if only for 30 seconds or so. Definately enough to pass a few cars.

A cold air intake pulls the air from outside the engine compartment so it doesn't have this problem. Most of the gains I have seen on short rams are hood-open dyno runs which do not simulate the real world. It's called bench racing. Just my .02¢

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I just did this myself a few days ago. I was amazed how much crap was in there. As far as a DIY, I removed the driver wheel just to make access easier. Pop all the plastic pin clips out from at least the front half of the fender liner. Then you'll see all the black plastic tubing for the intake. There are a couple of the same plastic pin clips for the tube along the top of the fender. There are three 10 mm bolts (I think..) that hold parts of the intake in the area in front of the wheel. I left the tube all the way to the wheel well while I think of what I'm going to do in the end.

 

I have mine removed along with the reflash..resonator removal is by far the best free mod you can do.


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I tried removing the rest of the tubing but I couldn't figure out how to get it out, I removed the battery and its tray but still couldn't get it out I think I need to try and remove the wheel liner and get it out from there.

FB2 squad #10

 

I removed everything beyond the inlet that's inside the wheel well, behind the fender liner.

 

Think I might do this weekend. All this talk lately. For a free mod that adds sound and maybe throttle response...I can go for that.